“All Aboard” For Switzerland, 14-22 Days
“All Aboard” For Switzerland, 14-22 Days
How is this for a lack of imagination? Deed and I, over a lifetime of travel, have journeyed to Switzerland 25 times. Actually, I think it’s more, but Deed insists on the number 25, so I won’t say she’s wrong --- but she’s wrong.
The important question is not why she’s wrong, but why anyone would keep going back to the same place over and over again. After all if you’ve seen one cow you’ve seen them all. But for Switzerland it’s not that simple.
Here’s why we keep going back time and time again. The Swiss have this unique talent of harmoniously blending the natural physical beauty of their environment with the cultural sophistication of fondue, raclette, and chocolate. For us, there is no place in Europe where the landscape seems so dramatic yet so serene. It’s a waste of your time trying to find a run-down junker of a car or a house without flowers in Switzerland, but if that’s what you’re looking for --- try Cleveland.
We strongly recommend that you schedule your trip to Switzerland in late Spring (May- June) in particular to experience the power and majesty of rushing water from dynamic falls to rushing streams to ice cold crystal lakes and to go prior to the tourist season. However this exact same itinerary works beautifully from the end of August to early November. Winter in Switzerland requires a different set of parameters and will be offered in a separately designed tour. For me winter in Switzerland now consists of memories because at my age most of my outside winter activities, other than the occasional sleigh ride and a hot drink by a blazing fire are strictly forbidden by “What’s Her Name.”
Sorry, I lost my focus for a minute.
TIP! Whenever you go to Switzerland pack for a variety of weather conditions. In the valleys it might be pleasantly warm but in higher elevations you will need warm clothes, that is, a scarf,gloves, wool hat, and a warm sweater. Just between us I know Deed used to “forget” to pack things like a hat or something so she could buy things in Switzerland, but I’m on to her now. But she still “forgets.”
But anyway, this is a good time to throw you a curve. Driving a car in Switzerland has always stimulated a wonderful set of memories but get ready for the curve ball. Are you ready? We recommend that this trip be built around traveling by train.
Yes, by train! Why the train? Train travel is the most logical way to move across Switzerland because the entire travel experience in Switzerland has been thoughtfully designed around rail not the car. The Swiss have made train travel efficient, convenient, and comfortable. Trains operate like a Swiss watch, and because of the ever-present Alps it is the only way to get to some villages.
I am a “car man” and I like to drive, particularly on the spectacular steep grades and sharp curves, but the reality is that I miss most of the beauty of the country because I can never take my eyes off the road. So in Switzerland we have set the car aside and hopped aboard the train.
It was a great decision.
Train travel in Switzerland is marvelously integrated not only from place to place but with local buses, mountain railroads, cable cars, and lake boats. And the cherry on top is that everything in the system is clean, safe, friendly and always punctual and reliable. And finally, for an old miser like me, it’s inexpensive.
Before You Start Your Train Experience
Connect to Switzerland through Zurich Airport and go through passport control and then baggage claim.
Follow large signs to Train/Bahn/SBB. Now, you have been in the airport for only a few minutes and you’re already on your way to the train and if you are like me you stop in amazement as you realize these guys know how to treat travelers. At this point, tired as we are, we can’t resist a merry yodel or two.
Yes, the train station is in the airport so there is no need for a shuttle or taxi.
Before you leave home purchase online a Swiss Travel Pass. It will be delivered as a digital pass or mobile pass and print it or keep it on your phone. Buy your pass a few weeks before departure. You can also buy the pass at the SBB counter in the airport (that’s what we did, and it was super easy) and they will print the pass for you. You can get a pass at any train station as you later move about the country.
How do you use the pass? Again, it’s super easy. Just walk into the train station with your luggage and find your train departure time and track on the big board. Hop aboard the train and place your luggage in the open storage bins at either end of the car. Seats are not reserved so find a seat and get comfortable.
Whip out some Swiss chocolate and enjoy the short journey to Lucerne.
Lucerne
Lucerne is a beautiful (86,000) and a walkable city situated on crystal clear Lake Lucerne with charming lake boats that will carry you to small villages across the lake for day trips.
Your train pass can be used on the boat cruises and also on the local buses and even, I believe, on a day trip to Mount Pilatus or Mount Rigi.
TIP! In the past we have taken the ride up Mt. Pilatus to the observation deck and after a few hours at the top and a light lunch have taken the footpath down. The walk down to the lake and the lake boat back to Lucerne took us about 3 pleasant hours. Remember most of life’s problems are solved by good boots.
Recommended activities in and around Lucerne
Use the internet to review videos of Lucerne. Have you watched many videos? None of them do justice to Lucerne! All in all, Lucerne cannot be captured on film --- not even by the best Hollywood director. Seeing is believing.
We strongly recommend that your lodging be within walking distance of the iconic covered bridges. The 14th century Chapel Bridge, pictured below, is a short walk from the train station, and the train station is next to the cruise dock, and together they form the core hub of Lucerne. Because you will be in the center of local activities you want to book early. We also recommend that your stay be 3- 5 nights and that you settle into an apartment/house rather than a hotel-type lodging.
Having just arrived from the airport take a short taxi ride from the Bahnhof Ost (the main train station)) to your lodging. If you prefer a hotel there are superior hotels in Altstadt and apartments near the lake, and of course there is always the iconic Hotel Gütsch.
Hotel Chateau Guetsch
The Bahnhof is close by the River Reuss that divides the Altstadt (Old Town) from the Neustadt (New Town). On any fly day my first activity after settling into our new digs begins with the letter “N”. It’s a 3-letter word. Deed hates the “N” word and is always off and about exploring this and buying that, but for me it’s nap time.
Again I digress.
If you have time drop me a line about your first night in Lucerne. Lucerne may change your life, and you will be so glad that you are not there for only one night. Now, don’t forget to slow down. Take your time but familiarize yourself with the city. Walk along the river crossing the bridges and take in the beautiful Rococo Jesuit Church near the Chapel Bridge --- and remember to take your time. On either side of the river are enchanting shops and restaurants filled with the many delights of Switzerland. Continue along the lake path to Rotsee, a small lake north of the city famed as a rowing lake, and then back to your lodging in preparation for a late dinner at the Hotel Gütsch. I’m not going to tell you anything more about Gütsch --- let it be a surprise.
A day trip to Mt. Pilatus begins after a hearty breakfast then with your backpack loaded with weather gear it’s up into the mountains. Gather at the departure dock for the 9 am short cruise to Alpnachstad and cogwheel train up to Pilatus.
TIP! I hate the mindless phrase “Been there, done it” so why not another day or two revisiting the same things. Try It. You’ll love it. Lucerne is worth exploring with excellent walking paths along the lakeside and along the river that includes parts of the medieval wall defenses and towers.
A day trip by boat along Lake Lucerne can be organized at the boat launch in town plus there are a number of apps to help you select the cruise route that is best for you. We particularly liked the villages of Altdorf, Willsau and Stans, but there are no bad decisions. Also a full day outing from Lucerne to Bürgenstock or a day trip to the mountain retreat at Seelisberg are worth considering. Actually, more than “worth considering” --- they would be wonderful outings.
The Lion Monument and the legend of the Swiss Guard is a must do, but to me it came in as #45 on my Lucerne to do list, but still everyone seems to have to go see the Lion. So go see the Lion.
On your days in Lucerne we recommend exploring Lake Rotsee and Mount Rigi.
When it’s time to leave Lucerne it’s back to the Bahnhof for the train to Lauterbrunnen. Locate your platform on the big board for the train to Interlaken Ost (East) and change there for Lauterbrunnen.
TIP! If you have time between trains take a look around Interlaken to familiarize yourself with the town. That way when you return for your last adventure you will be familiar with the lay of the land --- so to speak.
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen is a small village (880) in one of Switzerland’s most enchanting Alpine valleys. The picture below shows one of 72 waterfalls that dot the valley. Resting gently on the mountain top cliffs far above the valley will be your next stop, the car free village of Wengen. But for now it’s all about Lauterbrunnen.
The region of the Lauterbrunnen valley includes scattered farms and villages but the grand population of less than 4,000 still offers the traveler the joy of a pristine and sparsely settled valley.
When you book your lodging in the village make certain that the owner of your chalet has arranged to provide transportation from the station to your lodging. Because you are without a car we recommend that you stay within walking distance to the village and the shops. By shops I particularly mean the COOP.
Ok, you’re in Lauterbrunnen, and by this time you should be able to read me like a book, perhaps a comic book, but whatever, so what am I about to tell you to do in Lauterbrunnen?
Right, slow down. Look around. You are not in Cleveland. Lauterbrunnen and the valley are a carefree getaway that offers you a relaxed pace to take in the beautiful scenery rather than rushing from place to place. There will be no Andy Wahrol type museums here only waterfalls and 1,000-foot rock walls and gentle paths with flowered meadows dotted with cows, goats and sheep to keep you company. And because this is Switzerland benches along your way will offer you time for rest and reflection.
Because we like to feed our souls before we feed our bodies we usually get a 2+ hour walk before breakfast, and Lauterbrunnen is perfect because we just wander. We do not need to reach any particular destination because the valley is the destination.
Recommended activities in and around Lauterbrunnen
Looking back on our trips to Lauterbrunnen it’s amazing how active we were in a valley that seemingly offers so little to do. The area almost invites poetic language, alas, I am without the skills of the poet. Still the valley seems to me to be less of a place you visit and more of a place you enter quietly. Once when speaking to a valley farmer he said that his valley was like a cathedral without walls and the choir the falling water that echoes off the cliffs with the distant chants of cow bells.
Here's a strange thought, but nevertheless a frequent thought. What a wonderous miracle it was that all the modern wars have flowed around but never through Switzerland. The Swiss, because they have been shielded by their mountains, are able to walk more slowly and with lower voices free from the travails of mindless conflict.
Explore Lauterbrunnen morning, noon, and night.
Staubbach Falls just one of many.
About 1 hour away, and a pleasant walk, is Trümmelbach Falls. Because we didn’t have a car our picnics required a little more creativity, but Deed was always up to the challenge. Personally, I thought she was very fortunate to find someone who was willing to lug all that stuff halfway across the valley --- not once but on 2 separate occasions. But I also was lucky to be with her.
Mürren is a mountain top village. I do not like to threaten people, particularly people who are seeking my help --- but hear this and hear this good. If you do not leave by cable car first thing in the morning and take the late cable car back down the mountain I will tell Deed. Don’t mess with Deed. I’m not saying she’s vindictive --- but I’m not saying she’s not. It’s simply better for everyone if you go to Mürren. Mürren is perched dramatically on a cliff edge with the Lauterbrunnen Valley far below. There are numerous paths from the village and also a funicular that goes up to Allmendhubel with grand views, a restaurant, and Alpine-flowered meadows. And always, benches for you to stop and take in the panoramic views.
Stechelberg sits at the end of the valley and can be reached from Lauterbrunnen either by a gentle walk or by bus. It is a small village with great views and a cable car but for some reason we missed it. Perhaps next time. From Stechelberg cable cars will take you up to the Schilthorn with its rotating restaurant and 360° view of over 200 mountain tops. It’s a waste of time and effort to go up on a rainy day or a day with heavy cloud cover, but whenever you go, go dressed for cold days. You, however, will likely find sunbathers at the top --- but they will be much younger.
Wengen
Wengen (3-5 nights) has a small permanent population of about 1,400 people but during the tourist seasons it might get up to 5,000. If you book a hotel you have a number of quality choices and none that even come close to a Motel 6 so not to worry. The same with a chalet or an apartment. We have always stayed in hotels, but one of us always wanted to rent a chalet. Perhaps another time.
Wengen
Recommended activities in and around Wengen
Look at the above photo of Wengen and that’s what to do in Wengen. There are no museums, no great cathedrals, no wonderful art galleries, no great universities --- and no traffic signals because there are no cars.
The picture shows you a solid stone wall that drops off thousands of feet to the valley below and clouds that at any moment will cover the valley and then in the blink of an eye the clouds slide away to show the valley below. And where are the clouds in Wengen? They are below you.
TIP! The first day or two in Wengen your body may need to move more slowly and with fewer strenuous activities. Plus you must factor in your age and health. The elevation of Wengen is 4,180 feet above sea level but as you take the trains, cable car, or walk the paths the elevation will increase rapidly and by the time you get to the Jungfraujoch the elevation is over 13,000 feet. Be thoughtful. At 88 Wengen is still an excellent option for me but not 13,000 feet up. That, for me, would not be wise. Now Deed, she can still chase a goat up the mountain.
So let’s find things to do.
Bundle up and find a cliffside café and order a cup of hot chocolate. Watch the man with a tripod go by with a camera bag stuffed with lenes on his way up the mountain in search of that undiscovered wildflower. Repeat daily.
Ride the cable car to Männlichen. It is a short ride but offers spectacular views of the Jungfrau, Eiger, and Mönch mountains and settles you gently at an observation deck and an open area to explore an Alpine trail. One trail leads to another if you want to venture further afield. Each path is clearly marked, and a number of apps will have you always positioned so there is no worry about getting lost. Unless you wander off the well-marked trail. NEVER WANDER OFF THE TRAIL.
The train from Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg or all the way to the Jungfraujoch is a “must do.” A number of times we have taken the trail from Wengen and walked to Kleine Scheidegg and followed another loop trail back to Wengen. Also a very pleasant day is the walk to Kleine Scheidegg and return after lunch by train.
Only on our last trip we discovered, actually Deed found it, a gentle pastural and less crowded walk from Wengen to Allmend to Leiterhorn to Wengwald and back to Wengen. The path has fewer wild spectacular vistas as it moves through Alpine forest and flowered meadows creating a peaceful walk with peaceful thoughts.
TIP! We suggest that when it’s time to come down through the clouds that you take a late afternoon ride down to Lauterbrunnen and catch the train back to the Interlaken Ost station. It is a short scenic trip lasting about 30 minutes so you can spend most of your last day in Wengen and arrive in Interlaken in the late afternoon. Your lodging in Interlaken will likely not be ready until after 4 pm, so unlike air travel you will be fresh and ready to conquer Interlaken the first night.
Interlaken
Interlaken (7,000) is strategically situated between Lakes Thun and Brienz. The entire region has been masterfully designed to operate around trains, boats and boots. The lake steamers are not just transportation but are part of the Swiss magic.
Picture of Interlaken on Lake Thun
Lake Thun is our favorite. Unlike most of the other Alpine lakes that we have seen Thun offers a majestic refinement with vineyards, castles, historic towns, and lakeside walking paths. The boats on Lake Thun from Interlaken end at the charming village of Thun with its own castle. Follow the Aare River through Old Town to centuries old streets lined with bookshops and delightful restaurants.
Also on Lake Thun is the must-see town of Spiez with its own small lakeside castle. We did Spiez and Thun on separate days, but the rumor is they can both be done in one day. I don’t like rumors.
If time permits Oberhofen (castle and gardens) and Merligen merit your attention, but time might be a factor. Your call.
We did not do Lake Brienz on our last trip, but the reality is that in any trip you make decisions and Lake Brienz came up short. But every trip is in preparation for the next trip, so we didn’t really miss Lake Brienz we just saved it for another time.
The area around Lake Brienz is less developed and more rugged. The towns on the lake feature traditional wooden chalets, wood carving centers and the towns tend to be “very Swiss”. The boat ride is one of the best lake experiences and it is certainly a valid choice to take only short hops into the villages and continue around the lake by boat.
Now, back to Interlaken.
Recommended activities in and around Interlaken
Interlaken is more a tourist center than a traditional town, built to handle travelers arriving by every means of transportation --- although I don’t recall seeing camels --- but everything else converges on Interlaken during the tourist season. I would not recommend staying here in the summer but in spring or fall the town will be perfect.
Why was Deed so insistent on adding Interlaken to the tour? The reason she wanted you to come to Interlaken was TO LEAVE IINTERLAKEN.
Yes, one day in Interlaken is plenty, but the lakes, mountains, and their surrounding villages makes Interlaken the hub of your Swiss Adventure.
Boats, boats, and more boats. You will have a delight exploring both lakes at your leisure and you can use your Swiss Travel Pass. Sometimes you might even want to take the boat one way and the train one way. That saves time and can even be more convenient. Whatever you do start early in the morning.
Harder Kulm Interlaken’s own private mountain is reached from Interlaken Ost by a short funicular ride. At the top (4,000+ feet) you will be greeted by sweeping views and hot chocolate. The restaurant is designed like a mini castle and from the observation platforms you will have a view of the town and both lakes. There are also walking paths but make sure you have your weather gear with you.
Apologies: That last comment was both rude and stupid and I wanted to erase it, but Deed insisted on keeping it in to show my true character. If you have made it this far in the trip naturally you have your backpack with you and your gear is never more than a zipper away.
Here we are. It’s transfer day. On transfer days Deed is always excited about going home and getting back in her garden but for me it’s a Greek tragedy. Who would want to leave Switzerland? My vote is always to repeat the trip and go back to day one, but somehow my vote is discounted.
At least your Swiss transfer day will be super easy. Let me show you how easy it will be:
You already have your Swiss Travel Pass ticket to Zurich Airport (Flughafen), or you can quickly purchase one at the Interlaken Ost Station ticket counters. Seat reservations are not required so you want to check the big board.
First travel to Bern →→→ transfer in Bern to train for →→→ Zurich Flughafen. The train station is in the airport, and you just use elevators or escalators to the terminal. You do not need to go outside. Just get off the train and follow the signs to Airport/Flughafen.
Check-in counters are directly above the train station and there is only one terminal.
Plan to arrive at the airport 3 hours before departure. Your train ride will be less than 3 hours.
From Interlaken to the airport is another Swiss scenic delight, and you will have none of the horror often associated with American Airports. Somehow the Swiss were able to have their airports designed by and for travelers.
That is one reason we have been to Switzerland more than 25 times.
Review our “We’re Glad You’re Here” entry, as well as Deed’s Guidepost and Essentials for detailed guidance on:
Counting Days and Budget
Packing
The Aging Process
Perspective and Pacing
Stress and Endurance
Car Rental in helping you prepare for your trip
Plan well, travel well, and savor the experience.