The Magic of the German Christmas Markets, 18-22 Days
The Magic of the German Christmas Markets, 18-22 Days
For those who are new to these pages this is not the place to begin but Germany is the right tour and if you are 50 or older you are the right person. First, you will need to do some homework. To begin here is to watch the last 10 minutes of a really great movie ---so let’s begin at the beginning.
Christkindlmärkte
This trip is designed to offer the traveler the magical experience of combining a wintery Germany with the magic of the famous Christmas markets (Christkindlmärkte).
Singular: Christmas market = Christkindlmarkt
Plural: Christmas markets = Christkindlmärkte
In most of southern Germany the Christmas markets are referred to as Christkindlmärkte but in northern Germany it is more common to refer to the market (singular) as Weilnachsmarkt, or Weilnachsmärkte (plural).
This is where Deed and I break one of our basic rules. We always say the two best times to travel are during the off season, or during the off season. And here we come saying to plan a trip in the peak of the high tourist season when it’s both crowded and expensive.
This trip is not only different from our other trip suggestions --- it’s unique. Often our trips feature the wonders of nature, such as those in our Wales and Scotland trips, other trips have been built around the architectural wonders of the charming villages of the Yorkshire Dales or the golden hued stone cottages of the Cotswold. Still other trips have been designed to feature museums, cathedrals, and other high cultural experiences like the theater.
The Christkindlmärkte will truly be a different experience.
In place of the wonders of nature your experiences center around the joyous celebration of hope and love in a magical festive world of laughter and cheer. The rosy cheeked crowds, with their cups of piping hot drinks, dressed in winter hats and scarves add to the festivities as do all the dancing and laughing children with their gaze fixed on endless toys and sweet cakes.
As winter approaches German towns and villages are transformed into a storybook world of magic. Each village makes you feel that you’re entering a living Advent calendar. The Christkindlmärkte become a village within a village with their pine-branched covered wooden stalls aglow with the lights of the season. The hawkers sell carved nativity scenes, handmade gifts, and beeswax candles with every stall its own remarkable small world of craftmanship dating back into the Middle Ages.
The Advent Calendar
The celebration of the Advent season, the four weeks before Christmas, is the origin of the Christmas markets and the earliest known was held in Dresden in 1434. Advent means arrival or coming and refers to the coming of the Christ Child. Advent is a time of waiting and preparation for the birth of Christ. What we now call “holidays” for more than 2,000 years were “Holy days” and were an integral part of daily life. The season of hope and light was celebrated through the ritual use of candles, decorations, songs, and the nativity scenes on display at the Christmas markets which opened to the sounds of bells ringing announcing the season of hope and light.
Throughout the markets are the exalted sound of carols sung by strolling carolers and from inside of the churches the sound of heavenly organ recitals in glory of the birth of the Christ Child.
And then there are the scents and tastes: mulled wine, (Glühwein), brown conical paper bags of pralines (always get the large bag), Stollen, Reibekuchen (potato pancakes). And always the sizzling Bratwurst and other delicacies over an open flame.
If you’re lucky the Christkindl appears in a parade along with Mary, Joseph, and the Three Wisemen. And yes, there will be sheep.
Being in these markets during the day makes you believe all that is good is possible. To be in the markets at night makes you weep for joy. The evening might be capped by the appearance of a young woman in a golden gown and crown blessing one and all. The young woman stands for the spirit of giving, innocence, and hope.
The world moves more slowly. For a moment it feels as if you are inside Christmas itself.
TIP! For some incomprehensible reason tour agents often combine trips to Nazi concentration camps with trips to the Christmas markets. Please avoid such a stupid and insensitive mistake.
Preparing an Itinerary
Hang a map of Germany on the wall and throw darts at the map and where they stick are the best Christmas markets in Germany. In other words it’s impossible to pick the “Best Market” because they’re all wonderful --- they may be different --- some are big like Nurenberg or Munich while others are small like those that line the Romantic Road (Romantische Strasse) --- but they are all wonderful.
TIP! You will be traveling at a peak time of year, and it is important to book wisely and to book early. Location, location, location. In the small villages like Lindau, and Rothenburg every place is “central” to the market, but in Munich you want to be within a short walk from the Marienplatz (Mary’s Square).
Now what do I mean by early? To best be in control of selection and pricing we would certainly book 6-8 months in advance. Remember your competition for quality lodgings will not be the independent traveler, but large tour agents. So book wisely and early.
Ice Cream
I love ice cream. I love lots of ice cream and with a frequency that has elicited heavy disapprovals from my CEO. I have been issued warnings, fines, and dagger-like eyes. As of yet --- no pink slips, but some very serious timeouts that have lasted for days.
So what has this to do with your trip to the Christkindlmärkte? Plenty! I love ice cream but there is always a limit. Remember we have been taught that, “Man does not live by ice cream alone.”
Well, same thing applies to the Christmas markets. After all you can only have so much Mulled wine, and there are only so many bags of pralines that one can eat in three weeks. And really, how many nutcrackers can you buy?
The heart and soul of your trip will definitely be the markets yet there is so much to see and do in places like Munich and the other great stops on your adventure other than just the Christmas markets.
Our Recommendations
Over several months Deed and I have written seven different itineraries for this trip, and we always end back to where we started by throwing darts --- always grateful that we’re still throwing them at the map although I expect that to change any day.
Finally, we have arrived at an itinerary that we are pleased to present to you.
We recommend that you arrive at the Munich Airport and after passing through customs proceed directly to car rental to pick up your prebooked car. As always, check out the car before signing your contract and take pictures to document the pre-rental condition of the car. We have tried to maximize your market experiences without too many long driving days, so the size of the car is your decision but do expect some winter weather.
By design, we have saved the Christmas markets of Munich to be your last hurrah making for a spectacular farewell.
TIP! Because you will be exploring in winterish weather coupled with the reality of wet, slippery, cobblestone streets it is vital for you to always be in really good waterproof insulated boots. Yes, we have a thing about boots!
You will thank us and our boot fetish once you get home.
Lindau
LINDAU
Your drive from the Munich airport is about 2+ hours (115 miles) and will take you southwest to the beautiful, harbored lakeside island village of Lindau (4 nights) on Lake Constance (Bodensee). The island of Lindau is connected by a causeway making it easy for you to access your lodgings. In Lindau you will experience your first Christmas market near the town’s sheltered harbor with its own lighthouse and large stone lion guarding the iconic harbor entrance. The village has Gothic and Renaissance style architecture and features frescostory picture-painted buildings like the Altes Rathaus (town hall).
TIP! On this trip each city will feature a Christmas market, in the case of Munich there are more than a dozen different markets, but my point is that they will likely have their own theme name and that may or may not be the generic Christkindlmarkt.
We are excited to recommend that your first nights (4) will be in Lindau and that will enable you to take the ferry boats to the lakeside town of Konstanz where you will find a wonderful Christmas market of over 150 stalls. There is also, on weekends, a ferry to the charming town of Bregenz in Austria.
Lindau is a walkable town with excellent shops and restaurants and delightful parks and trails. The Christmas markets in Lindau and Konstanze will be a perfect introduction into your German Christmas.
TIP! For all the Christmas markets it’s best if you always have cash available. The stall vendors really don’t want you to buy a bag of pralines on your card or smart phone. Have cash.
If you have the time to be away from the lake and its villages there are other adventures awaiting you that include some driving.
Take a 1+ hour (30miles) drive to St. Gallen in Switzerland. Highly recommended full day adventure.
Take a 40+ minute drive to Ravensburg.
Neuschwanstein Castle 1 ½ hours (70 miles). Likely there will be long lines.
ROMANANTIC ROAD (ROMANTISCHE STRASSE)
It’s time to leave Lindau and the Bodensee. So, let’s get started early for a 3-hour tour of this fairy tale Romantische Strasse on your way to the medieval village of Rothenburg ab der Tauber. Your GPS may indicate a 3-hour trip lies before you, but we had to rush to complete the trip in 8-hours because the Strasse is dotted with ancient villages, walled villages, castles, and the rolling hills of the approaching Alps. All along the drive you will be tempted to stop and walk the cobblestone streets of villages like Dinklelsbühl and Nordingen where Gothic cathedrals wait to inspire.
You are in charge, but if I may offer a piece of advice it would be to limit the temptations and stop only to acquaint yourself with what you want to return to in a few days --- but first get settled in Rothenburg.
I was not strong. I stopped in every village and got to our hotel late --- too late. What is too late?
Driving in Germany at night and finding our hotel in Rothenburg among the narrow winding streets in the middle of a medieval town --- in the dark. Plus, a number of streets were closed or detoured because of the Christmas market. That, and more is the very definition of “too late.” I was not popular that night.
Of course, I always say --- “Live and sometimes learn.”
Rothenburg
Rothenburg ab der Tauber (above the Tauber)
Rothenburg (4-5 nights), situated above the Tauber River, is a stone walled village dating from the 14th century and one of the most beautiful villages in Germany. It is famed for its half-timbered houses and arched gateways passing through the guard houses.
On our first night in Rothenburg a dusting of light snow began to fall on the red tiled roofs and on the wreathed windows of the buildings creating a gingerbread fairy tale atmosphere. By morning the entire village was blanketed in a lacy cover of snow creating a childlike play village.
The Christmas market, locally known as the Reiterlesmarkt, is located in the Markplatz, and is one of the oldest markets in Germany dating back more than 500 years.
The Reiterlesmarkt casts a spell over the village and highlights the sacredness of Advent with its joyful stalls filled with Christmas delights.
The Reiterle is a mythical horseman once feared as a ghostly rider somewhat akin to Irving’s the headless horseman in The Legend of Sleepy Hollow.
Tour buses and more buses. Rothenburg is one of the top tourist sites in Germany and the buses come and go on a regular schedule. The peak tour hours are between 10 am until about 6 pm so during most of those hours we explored the path that hugs the medieval wall around the town. Other walks take you gently down into the valley below.
Also in Rothenburg is St. Jakob’s Church, the city hall building (Rathaus), Night Watchman’s Tour, and the iconic model village of Kathe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas store.
The entire town of Rothenburg is a visual experience only heightened by the Christmas market.
Finally, the restaurants, inns, and taverns will delight and amaze with their hearty Franconian specialties, that is, if you are strong enough to avoid the delicious temptations offered in the stalls of the market.
DINKELSBUHL AND NORDINGEN
Earlier in your planning stage you had some decisions to make. Fortunately, it is a win-win situation.
We recommended that your 4-5 nights along the Romantic Road be booked in one place, Rothenburg, but you could have distributed your time in any combination of nights among the several villages.
Dinklelsbühl is smaller and seemed less crowded than Rothenburg but in many ways offers the same charm and features.
The rooftops are steep and of red tile, and the town walls and gates encircle the village. St. George’s Minster (Georgsmunster) near the market holds Christmas concerts and Christmas services.
TIP! The official websites should be consulted for special events. Deed told me to remind you that websites are left up for eternity and one of her best friends has a bad habit of booking events that took place 10 years ago. I, however, find that hard to believe.
Nordingen is a village like no other. Millions of years ago a meteorite crashed into Earth leaving a giant circular imprint in what is now Germany, and specifically in the area that would become the village of Nordingen. That’s right. Nordingen was built in the crater left by the meteorite with its circular walls making up the edge of the village.
The Christmas market in Nordingen is a real “local market” with an authenticity that cannot be replicated in the larger city markets.
Last year, as I was finishing the itinerary, it seemed that there was a similar pace or rhythm between Maurice Ravel’s Boléro and the Christmas tour as both follow a relentless rhythm to a continuous crescendo. The Christmas tour also reaches its climax --- not in musical notes, but in the magical city of Munich where the pace and clatter are uniquely big city. Day after day the tour’s theme of the celebration of the Christmas season, of Advent, is singular and near hypnotic with the same repetitiveness found in Boléro both going from small/soft to large/loudending.
As you prepare to leave Rothenburg for your next stop the pace or rhythm becomes more hectic, the crowds become more intense/nosier, the markets more commercial, and the events more professionally presented. Think back to the peaceful boat trip on the Bodensee from Lindau to Konstanze, and your last night in beautiful Rothenburg only to find yourself driving to the city of Bamberg with its city vibes.
I won! I won!
Deed, the editor of everything I write, do, or think, finally approved of what she called, “my flight of fantasy” and let me keep the stuff about Boléro’s, “relentless rhythm,” and even my “continuous crescendo.” I thought for a moment that I might lose the “continuous crescendo,” but a couple of gems were lost. Still, I won!
BAMBERG
The pace of the trip has quickened. Bamberg (77,000) on the Regnitz River is a spirited city that will help prepare you for the grand finale in Munich. Bamberg’s Old Town has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its cobblestone streets and half-timbered houses it offers a medieval charm that casts a dreamlike spell over the first-time visitor. We recommend that your stay be 4-5 nights. There is train service to Nuremberg which would be an excellent outing, but this late in the trip a day in Nuremberg might be too tiring.
We used our first day in Bamberg as a day of rest and relaxation. At this point in the trip a day of R&R is critical plus the food in Bamberg is a culinary feast. We spent a good part of R&R seated at curbside windowed beer halls watching Bamberg go by with the occasional stroll through some medieval streets.
We never left Bamber to venture out and our days went by much too quickly.
Things to do in Bamberg:
The major Christmas market is located on Maximiliansplatz a short walk from the Cathedral.
The 15th century Altes Rathaus is impressively built on a small man-made island with an 18th century 3D fresco picture-story on its facade.
Certainly, it is one of the finest city halls in Germany with its two connecting pedestrian bridges and one of the most photographed buildings in Germany. The interior is completed in the glorious Baroque and Rococo traditions.
TIP! A short diversion. To win back converts from the Protestant Reformation the Catholic Church instituted a series of reforms in a Catholic counter-reformation. One reform was to lighten and brighten the architectural style of the churches.
Now, let’s see if Deed lets me get away with this.
Think of the physical church structures prior to the Reformation as a dark chocolate cake. The Gothic style was--- dark and heavy. Now go to that same dark cake (church) and at every corner, every window, every archway, every column, and around every statue take a squeezy bag of icing and pile on the icing everywhere you possibly can. That is Baroque. Ready for more icing? Take 9 large squeezy bags of icing all in pastel colors like pink, sky-blue, yellow, light purple, and pile it on top of every nook and cranny that you can find, then go back and do it again until the dark chocolate cake has all but disappeared under the weight of the icing. That is Rococo.
Now, back to the cake. Eat a piece of Gothic dark brown chocolate cake. It’s delicious but it could use a little icing. Eat a piece of dark brown cake with icing, Baroque, and you will want a second piece. Eat a piece of dark brown chocolate cake with gobs of icing and more icing on the icing --- that’s Rococo and you will collapse to the floor shaking from a sugar fit. Rococo sure is sugary --- but it’s dazzling --- it’s eyepopping --- it’s overwhelming. Rococo crushes skepticism.
In southern Germany, particularly in Bavaria, you will be in the beautiful world of Baroque and Rococo. The Altes Rathaus, and the Bamberg Cathedral are but two examples of the “icinged” world of Bamberg. Please try to book a concert or sit unobserved in the back of a Rococo church during a wedding. We saw a wedding. Deed was an emotional wreck for 48 hours. For the longest time I merely had to mention the wedding to make her gush buckets. That was fun. I like fun.
The Bamberg Cathedral (Bamberger Dom St. Peters und St. Georg) dates from the early 12th century.
Nestled in the heart of Old Town, the Cathedral was founded by Henry II and is recognized as one of Germany’s finest examples of medieval design. The church suffered destruction from fires but was reconstructed in the 13th century featuring Romanesque and Gothic styles. Later renovations introduced Baroque and Rococo elements to its architecture.
Michaelsberg Abbey (Kloster Michaelsberg) dating from the 11th century was built on one of the seven hills of Bamberg and from its gardens offers excellent views of the red-roofed city below.
The Christmas markets are spread over several locations in Old Town, but the main market is in New Town on Maximilianplatz the central square in Bamberg.
There is no order of progression from one market to the next market, so Deed recommends starting at the one nearest to your lodging.
Back to the mundane for a moment. As always, make sure your lodging has a designated parking space for your car.
Leaving Bamberg
We suggest before leaving for Munich that you tidy up a few logistical issues.
We used Bamberg, and the wonderful German postal system to gather our purchases and excess clothing (dirty), and anything that will not be needed during our stay in Munich and sent them home.
Next, we combined our two suitcases into one. One suitcase we left in storage at the Munich Airport after returning the car to the rental office. The second suitcase we “shared” for our stay in Munich. Being married 62 years to Deed sharing a suitcase means that I get the side small pocket. That is not written in anger but in being reconciled to my fate.
TIP! Below you will find a brief list of things to see and do in Munich but like all of our tours designed for the senior independent traveler your personal input is essential. Again, think about Deed’s Guideposts. Our lodging in Munich, or any big city, is never more than a few blocks away from my next nap. Remember, know your interests and your abilities.
Munich Airport
Before you go to the city of Munich you need to first go to the Munich Airport to return your car rental and put any unneeded items for Munich in an airport storage locker.
We recommend taking the Autobahn A73 from Bamberg toward Nurenberg then A9 to airport then A92 for the last leg. It’s about a 3-hour drive and 150+ miles with nice rest stops along the way.
The Munich airport is user friendly and the car-return is in the airport terminal, making the car drop off super easy. The suburban train to Munich (S-Bahn) will cheaply take you to the heart of Munich and is efficient and inexpensive, but if you are tired the taxi, while it takes longer and is more expensive, takes you right to your hotel and makes for a very relaxing transfer. If you go to Munich by train from the airport take either S1 or S8 and buy your ticket at the machines located near the station entrance.
Because we are old poops and were under budget we took the taxi. Good decision.
Munich is the grand finale. Boléro reaches its climax in full splendor. In Munich, the Christmas markets reach their climax in full splendor. Munich is now before you.
Munich
Munich
Munich is the star of Bavaria. Munich is a big star with nearly 2,000,000 people. The first time we went to Munich we were part of a bus tour that poured us out at the train station(Bahnhof). Our guide then preceded to march us around for 2 hours then gave us some free time to discover the wonders of Munich on our own, but with strict instructions to meet back at the bus in 2-hours for a short drive to our “Bavarian evening.” I believe the other 6 bus tours that joined us at our monster-size Bavarian evening enjoyed the music as much as we did. It was very professional, and very staged. We left Munich the next morning.
That was our introduction to Munich.
You are in Munich for the Christmas markets, and we recommend a 5-night stay. Munich is the end of your tour, and as you get into winter the days are shorter, and the nights are colder. If you are like me you will need to escape into a beerhall, a museum, or perhaps a church concert to warm the old toes --- and of course to be culturally enlightened. What I am saying, in short, is a break from the cold weather is vital.
Weather
A brief word about the weather. The weather is to be embraced because it is a key component of the overall celebration of the German Christmas experience. I know, not many people like to embrace cold, damp, rainy/snowy weather, but there’s always a cup of Glühwein just a stall away.
Likely you have had a dusting of snow along the Romantic Road, but this will now be “city snow” it is unlikely that you will experience a heavy snow, but you will see flurries, frosted roof tops, and icy cloudy mornings. If the weather does produce a frown it will be cold rain.
What caught us by surprise was the wind --- it was very biting.
With hot drinks, steaming food stalls, and crowds bundled in scarves and wool hats the weather in the markets is picture perfect.
So, what does the weather in Munich say to you? I think it might say, have your waterproof boots on, under your raincoat be layered, and in your always-with-you-backpack have other goodies to ensure you are warm and dry.
Here is a brief list of our favorite Christmas markets:
Tollwood Winter festival (Thereseinwiese, less traditional)
Medieval Christmas Market (Mittelaltermarkt)
Chinese Tower Market (Weilnachsmarkt am Chinesischen Turm, in the English Garden)
Our recommendation is to select the markets that match your interest. There must be about 15 markets in Munich, but that number seems overwhelming for a 5-day trip. We liked to go back to our favorites again and again because of the vibes they sent out.
Things to do and see in Munich
Deed and I are small town people and live a rural life with the nearest big city about 200 miles away. What we do have are mountains, clear streams, and farm fields. Our roads are not crowded but tend to be back country roads where you will often be slowed by an Amish family going to market behind real horsepower.
The point is that we have often maintained the difficulty, if not impossibility, of living a civilized life in a high-rise apartment surrounded by millions of strangers.
Experiencing Munich the answer might just be: Yes, it’s possible to live a civilized life in an urban environment.
Munich combines elegance, charm, and warmth to an urban lifestyle. It offers to the eye the possibilities of beauty and man’s contribution to enhancing the beauty of nature with its harmonious parks and green spaces and its sympathetic incorporation of architectural grace and refinement in the midst of a modern city. During the Advent season we felt that beauty was married to hope and love.
There is nothing more we could wish for you.
Now to the details.
1.Christmas Markets: Obviously, you will often be in the Christmas markets.
2. English Garden: People don’t go to see a garden in the winter. Yes they do, and the English Garden with its own Christmas Market (Chinesischen Turm) is a wintertime delight.
A major attraction in the Garden is the Eisbach surfers. Even in winter elite surfers ride a manmade standing wave that is great to see but way too cold for the likes of me. Museums near the English Garden include the Haus der Kunst featuring modern art --- a rainy-day escape. Also nearby is the superior Bavarian National Museum.
3. Concerts: Wonderful candlelight concerts are held in Max-Joseph Hall. In the Frauenkirche. A stirring experience is the Advent choral performances held throughout the season.
4. Munich Residenz: The Residenz is regarded as one of Germany's most distinguished city palaces. The royal apartments, featuring 17th and 18th century Baroque furnishings, are accessible to the public. The Antiquarium Hall, in my humble opinion far surpasses the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles but have a look for yourself. Also at the Residenz check out the Residenz Christmas Village inside the courtyard.
5. The Kunstareal art district: An area near the English Garden with three distinct museums: the Alte Pinakothek (old masters), the Neue Pinakothek (may still be under construction), and the Pinakothek der Moderne.
6. Nymphenburg Palace: A baroque palace with a sleigh and carriage museum.
7. Hofbrauhaus: An historic beerhall with Bavarian meals, a lively band, and some beer. An authentic cultural experience.
Auf Wiedersehen
There is no place I want to be more than home. That is true, and it has always been true. Yet when I travel, for some strange reason, I get caught up in where I am and I want to stay in that new bubble of life. I have never wanted to stay more than when we were in the near make-believe world of the German Christkindlmärkte.
Yes, Virginia there is a Santa Claus. I saw him in every village and town in Germany.
Review our “We’re Glad You’re Here” entry, as well as Deed’s Guidepost and Essentials for detailed guidance on:
Counting Days and Budget
Packing
The Aging Process
Perspective and Pacing
Stress and Endurance
Car Rental in helping you prepare for your trip
Plan well, travel well, and savor the experience.