Ireland: The Southwest and Dublin, 21-28 days
Ireland: The Southwest and Dublin, 21-28 days
The Southwest and Dublin experience is designed for the senior independent traveler to explore both the beautiful Dingle Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry regions of Ireland ending in Dublin. So get ready to lace up your boots and have a pint or two --- or a pot of tea.
There is something special about Ireland and her people. Ireland presents to the traveler an undeniable mystique forged in combination by the land, its people, and its past. The mystique that is Ireland, in part, can be attributed to its physical isolation from the main crossroads of Western Civilization. Because of its isolation Ireland has also been able to develop and nurture a unique culture that has been enriched by the arrival of early Christian missionaries. Ireland’s climate, lacking in the warmth and charm of Mediterranean cultures, has created its own warmth and charm through myths, legends, and the lyrical richness of the spoken word. In short, the Irish are storytellers.
The islands of Ireland have been inhabited since the end of the last Ice Age nearly 15,000 years ago and for the last 3,000 years have been molded by a Celtic tradition that gave character to the story of Ireland.
And what is the story of Ireland? For me, the story of Ireland is like a pot of Irish stew. As everyone’s recipe for Irish stew is different so everyone’s story of Ireland is different, but in all recipes the common ingredient is a dash of “malarkey” --- and in many cases more than a dash. The story of Ireland is too incredulous to be circumscribed by something called truth.
“There are only two kinds of people in the world: the Irish, and those that wish they were Irish.”
Listen to an Irishman tell a story and when his eyes reveal a mischievous twinkle you know the malarkey is about to be added to the stew. Now, I certainly don’t mean to suggest that the Irish lie, not at the level of a national pastime, but I’ve never known the Irish to let the truth get in the way of a good story and that is to their credit --- and our benefit.
So, with that being said, how can you not have a grand time in Ireland.
As you become more and more familiar with the flow of this itinerary you will realize it’s designed to focus on the most rustic and bucolic regions of Ireland only to include at the very end the fast paced and lively world of Dublin. At some point you will need to decide if Dublin will be a vital addition or a distraction to your adventure. Your call.
Who Are We? Please excuse this momentary detour but it is important, if you are new to these pages, for you to know something about us.
Where to begin. We were each born into lower middle class pre–World War II families, I was from New Jersey and travel was defined as a weekend in Wildwood, New Jersey, and Deed was from Ohio and as a young girl a family outing might take her as far as Lake Erie --- and there our travels ended. But travel was on our horizon.
We were married on a warm summer night in 1963 and began our foreign travels the next day. When not in the classroom we have been traveling hand in hand ever since. I’m 88 and my beautiful bride is 85 and the itch to travel still runs, although more slowly, through our hardening veins.
In these pages we hope to encourage senior travelers to travel independently of packaged tours and to experience the joys of personal discovery.
TIP! Before we get started, be sure to consult Deed’s Guidepost and the Essentials section, found in the menu bar at the top of this site.
As you get to know Deed you will soon understand that there is no way under God’s green Ireland that she will let me, and I underline “let me” recommend that you tour all of Ireland in one grand adventure. Remember Deed’s Guidepost #2. So this tour only gives you a nibble and saves more for later tours. But I guarantee you that it will be a most delicious nibble.
We are suggesting that the tour be about 21-28 days although packaged tours will cover the same area --- and likely more in 5-7 days. Go figure.
Now back to Ireland
Let’s Get Visual
There is no malarkey about the stunning beauty of Ireland. Even the most accomplished Irish storyteller lacks the words to describe the force of the Atlantic winds that arise off the rocky coast or the emerald-green landscapes lining the single-tract roads that leads the traveler to new adventures. Your Irish adventures may be found in the ruins of ancient monasteries on the cliffs of Skellig and the Aran Islands, or the protective castles with their thick-walled battlements, or the stone circles that open up the world to your imagination, or just a walk along the foot paths that edge a fast-moving stream.
Great Movies about Ireland
Into the West
The Secrets of Roan Inish
The Field
Waking Ned Devine
Ryan’s Daughter
War of the Buttons
Hear My Song
Michael Collins
The Quiet Man
TIP! When is the best time to travel to Ireland? Actually, there are two times, first, go during the off season, and second, go during the off season. The season (July and August) is packed with tourists from the four corners of the world bumping into each other and packed into pubs all having an Irish experience that is both phony and exhausting. So go before or after the season and experience the slower pace found in the Irish countryside minus mini-tour buses.
To be an independent traveler means you are “independent” and our tour suggestions are just that --- they are suggestions. In each of our tours we ask you to identify your interests and abilities and plan your trip accordingly. In other words “Know thyself.”
For The Southwest and Dublin we suggest that you fly into Dublin but do not begin your tour in Dublin but save your Dublin experience for the last days of the trip. Dublin is a wonderful city but like all cities it is flavored with noise and motion. Let’s get into the countryside right away for the real Irish experience.
TIP! Before you take possession of the car take a number of pictures of your car with the agent included in the pictures. The pictures will document the pre-rental condition of the car both from the inside and outside --- and don’t let the agent upgrade you to a large car.
The Dublin airport is not too stressful but make certain that you mentally review what you have learned about driving in Ireland. Within a brief time you will be heading south toward your first nights in beautiful Cashel (the Rock of Cashel).
We recommend Cashel in part because of its size and distance from the airport but mainly because of its historic charm.
Pick up your car and drive southwest toward the Dingle Peninsula. Cashel, about 100 miles or two hours from Dublin Airport, is a recommended stop for your first night.
Driving in Ireland (this is a lengthy list)
Arrange with your car rental agent to cover toll road expenses in your contract.
Before your trip watch videos of driving in Ireland.
Review Irish Road signs and road markers.
Rent only an automatic subcompact or compact with navigation unless you have experience driving in Ireland.
The size of your luggage is determined by the size of your car.
Irish roads may or may not have safety shoulders --- they won’t. At the side of the road where you expect to find a safety shoulder you will likely find a stone wall, a hedge, a barn, 9 sheep, or a cyclist. Be alert and slow down.
In roundabouts traffic comes from the right and cars in the circle have the right-of -way.
Always be attentive --- no coffee and no phones.
Single track roads will have laybys where you or the oncoming driver will pull into a small layby to permit passing.
Because the roads are often winding and narrow drivers are naturally cooperative, so leave driver rage at home.
The left turn is easy in Ireland, but the right turn requires you to be aware of oncoming traffic.
In Ireland, a driving license is a valued privilege not a right, so no one wants to risk having their license taken away by the police. Again, do they drive fast? Yes, but you are not Irish so obey the posted speed limits --- but keep up with the traffic in the non-passing lane. Cameras are everywhere and two months after you get home the car rental agency will send you a fine that must be paid. If you speed --- count on a ticket coming in the mail. The car rental agency has your credit card on file. The fine will take your breath away.
Again, how do they drive? Like a bat out of Hell. If you’re driving a motorway or any major highway only be in the passing lane when you are passing, not when you’re on the phone or having coffee. I may be hitting this issue too passionately, but it is important --- DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT STAY IN THE PASSING LANES EXCEPT TO PASS.
In conclusion it is fun, easy, and safe to drive in Ireland and essential if you want to get out of the cities. Ireland is a driver’s paradise.
TIP! Once again, the internet comes to your rescue. Research driving in the countries you plan to visit by watching multiple instructional videos several times. Learn how to be “Irish aggressive.” When you come to a traffic circle don’t dawdle, don’t wait until someone lets you in --- that won’t happen in your lifetime, and get out of the circle with the same confidence. Again, learn road signs and markers BEFORE you leave home. Why get there and wonder what that double yellow line next to the curb means. There are many videos about driving in Ireland that will make your time behind the wheel enjoyable. Please, please consult those videos. Preparation is everything.
Estimated Driving Times and Distances
Dublin airport to Cashel = about 2+ hours, 104+ miles or167+k
Cashel to Dingle = about 3+ hours, 130+ miles or 209+ k
Dingle to Killarney = about 1 hour, 40+ miles or 64+ k
Killarney to Kenmare = about 30+ minutes, 44+miles or 70+ k
Kenmare to Kildare = about 3+ hours, 170+ miles or 273+ k
Major points of interest
THE ROCK OF CASHEL AND THE TOWN OF CASHEL
The Rock of Cashel, also known as Saint Patrick’s Rock, rests on a base of limestone and forms a cluster of medieval buildings dating from the 5th century. It includes a high tower, a cathedral, an abbey, a walled fortress, and other outbuildings. The fortress was once the seat of ancient kings of Ireland, and it was from here that Saint Patrick converted kings and subjects to Christianity.
The town of Cashel (4,900) is about a 30-minute walk from the Rock and offers numerous restaurants and lodging. The town offers much to do and see with a number of trails leading into the rolling hills and a path to the ancient ruins. Also, Cashel has a folk museum, Dominic’s Abbey, St. Declan’s Way, Hore Abbey, and a heritage center.
We recommend 2-3 three nights in Cashel. It’s the perfect town to recover from the flight and filled with your first touches of Irish history and culture.
TIP! During our first stop in Ireland we searched out a hardware and grocery stores to buy 2 folding chairs, large sheets of plastic, and all the stuff, minus food, for some picnics. In a three week tour we will certainly stop at 3-4 beautiful spots to savor both the beauty of the area and the goodies in our lunch basket.
If you have traveled with us before you may recall how much I hate to waste my time shopping --- but that does not apply to Ireland and certainly to our first days in Cashel. Day one in Cashel I opened my wallet and let the moths out. To my half empty suitcase I added an Irish wool sweater, a cap, a scarf, and anything else that struck my fancy. When I left the locals probably talked about that rich American who in one afternoon brought sunshine to the economy. After all, why buy wool things at home when I’m going to where the sheep are.
DINGLE PENINSULA I have learned from an exceptionally reliable source that there are more than 14,091 things to do in Paris. It is also my understanding that there may be --- tops --- 3-4 things to do on the Dingle Peninsula (DP) yet we are recommending that you could spend a similar amount of time in each spot. Crazy! Yet we stand by that decision. In fact we would spend triple the days in the Dingle area and wish for more --- and this is where we would schedule a picnic or two along the baren rocky coast nestled in our cozy fold-up chairs and wrapped in plastic.
Traditional cottage on the Blasket Islands
Speaking of crazy, the town of Dingle has a population of about 1,900 people and about 50 or so pubs which means that almost everyone in Dingle either owns a pub, works in a pub, or services a pub except for those few who sell souvenirs and chocolates. Still while on the peninsula Dingle will be your recommended base for exploring the region. And the owners of your rental cottage most likely do not live in Dingle but somewhere in Belgium or Germany, so they are not really a part of the 1,900. Go figure.
With that in mind how can we possibly recommend a stay of 4-6 nights in Dingle? We recommend 4-6 nights because what we would really like to see you do is book Dingle for 6-8 nights but that might scare you away.
Which leaves us with the perplexing question of what someone on the DP, without their own sheep, can possibly do. It’s quite a conundrum.
You know those folding chairs and that picnic stuff --- here’s where we would break them out. That’s right. What we often do is just sit and watch --- on a beach, on a rocky cliff, on a pier, on a mountain top, and in a cozy harbor. It just doesn’t get better. That’s right. We sit and watch Ireland be Ireland.
The scenic drive around the peninsula is the breathtaking Shea Head Drive (23 miles, 38 k). We will complete on our first full day in Dingle the full 23 miles stopping only to scout out what we want to see more slowly the rest of our time on the DP. The short drive will take a good part of the morning because you will be behind 2 tractors, a herd of sheep, plus all your stops to scout out your return sites of adventure.
Recommended activities from Dingle include
Gallarus Oratory
Dunquin Harbor
Blasket Islands
Dunbeg Fort
Boat tours
Beautiful beaches
Hiking paths
Conor Pass
KILLARNEY Even with a brief stop or two the drive from Dingle to Killarney is less than 2 hours along roads that will be less challenging than you found on the DP but still there will be the roundabouts. There is much to do in Killarney (14,900) and the surrounding countryside so we recommend a stay of 4-6 nights and a rental cottage rather than a hotel. Nevertheless, Killarney also boasts outstanding traditional hotels and B&Bs that provide an authentic Irish atmosphere and a chance to connect with locals—an experience well worth considering.
If I go too deep on this Ring of Kerry matter I’ll be the first to get lost. So, where exactly does the Ring begin? Where does a circle begin? That’s deep enough. We will begin and exit the Ring in Killarney and that puts an end to it.
The area of Killarney was settled by Bronze Age people who worked the rocky soil more than 2,000 years ago. Not until the 5th century AD did the early Christian missionaries begin to convert the Irish to Christianity doting the countryside with monasteries, churches, and religious communities. They in turn were followed by the Vikings and then the Normans (who originally were Vikings) and finally by the tourists.
Recommended activities from Killarney:
Killarney House and Gardens
Muckross Abbey
Muckross House
Torc Waterfalls
Killarney National Park
Crow Island
Ross Castle
Lough Leane + kayak
Also, there are opportunities for exceptional hiking and biking trails in and around Killarney that will enable you to be nearly car-free during your stay. And no --- I don’t kayak.
FOLLOWING THE RING OF KERRY The Ring is a 100+ mile (179+ k) two-way circular winding road linking, like a string of pearls, village to village. At one time when we were in the midst of our stupid period we completed the Ring in one day. Yes, it can be done --- but it should not be done. Not in one day; not in five days. There are simply too many things to do and see. Take your time. You’re in Ireland. Enjoy.
Sometimes I’m amazed that I lived to be old. Again, I digress. Driving the Ring we recommend that you drive clockwise because the tour buses go counterclockwise. But, if you go off-season when the tour buses have been let out to pasture, then the counterclockwise direction makes sense. But still when all is said and done we prefer clockwise starting in Killarney then on to Kenmare.
TIP! Speaking of off-season, which is usually the best time to travel whether it’s Ireland or any place. Ireland is absolutely at its best when people like you and I have gone home. But we’re seniors so we can travel when and where we want.
So when is the off-season? The off-season refers to periods outside of July and August, with April, May, early June, September, October, and November considered the primary off-season months.
TIP! Speaking of off-season, the Irish lose what little sun they have in the winter months as the days get shorter and some “tourist spots” will be closed, but that does not impact on the quality of your Irish experience. It is a tradeoff that we willingly accept to experience Ireland minus the tour buses filled with people like me. Plus Ireland in the off-season is more relaxed and genuine. As a senior traveler I’m into relaxing.
Speaking of seniors I have been asked to offer a definition of what I mean by “a senior.” After consulting my little guru it was agreed that a senior is someone who:
Owns time --- that means no meetings, no stupid committees, no networking, and if the senior is a man only one boss.
Is able to say, “No! I won’t do that, or go there, or wear that, or eat that --- and get away with it.
Has more money than he ever thought possible.
I can find no flaws in that definition.
Now, seniors, back to the Ring of Kerry.
KENMARE The town (2,900) is lined with brightly colored houses and shops that welcome one and all and are meant to be seen and visited. And the woolies that I did not buy in Cashel are lined up and waiting for me here in Kenmare. My suitcase when I leave Kenmare will be bursting at the seams and Deed’s will need help. By the time we leave Kenmare Deed will have bags stuffed into every nook and cranny of the car with all of her purchases that will eventually be sent home from Dublin.
There are several basic lodging strategies to consider when planning your itinerary in the Ring of Kerry.
Stay in one place and journey to and from.
Several short 1–2-night stays and move forward.
A combination of the above.
We generally do # 1. What works best for you?
If you decide to frequently change your lodgings while circling the Ring you might consider these villages: Killorglin, Glenbreigh, Waterville, Cahersineen, and Sneem.
Deed and I booked into a holiday cottage in Kenmare for 6 nights and left wanting more. On our first 2 days the car never left the driveway, and we just enjoyed the town and the walks from the town and only then did we start our exploration of the Ring bit by bit but always returning to Kenmare before dark.
TIP! How much money do you have? Well, let me tell you right here and now you don’t have enough money to have me drive the Ring at night. That’s right. Wherever you stay you want to be back at your lodging with the car tucked away before the sun goes down. We recommend 4-6 nights to complete the Ring. Deed changed that --- I wrote 6-8 nights. 😒
Things to do around the Ring
Kerry Cliffs,
Sneem Falls
Waterville Promenade
Ladies View
Kenmare Stone Circle
As you can see there is much to do but putting it all into some grand plan, so much of the beauty and wonder of Ireland is simply about pacing. Again, I return to Deed’s Guidepost. Slow down. Relax. Do well what you do and don’t try to see all of Ireland on this trip.
Take your chairs, your plastic, and your picnic goodies and just enjoy the cliffs. Yes, and dress for the weather.
Irish Pubs
Irish pubs are often the heart and soul of the local community where friends and family frequently come to gather. The local pub is a “come as you are” laid back warm and welcoming place.
The décor, if one can call it décor, is 1930’s rural The Quiet Man. The Irish pubs are not some prefab packaged cute and trendy bar filled with phony antiques. Instead of trendy the local pub is just filled with old stuff from another era. In other words the pubs are fantastic and likely will be an important part of your Irish experience. Are children welcome? Yes, but even better, so are “polite dogs.” There may even be a dog menu for the discriminating dog to select from.
Pubs are usually locally owned and serve as social centers, places of entertainment and places of celebrations with deep roots that may go back centuries.
TIP! Don’t prance into an Irish pub and let everyone know you have arrived. You are not their friend (yet) but a one-time visitor. They are there with their friends, often their life-time friends and they want to be there with their friends. Let the locals take the lead.
On the way to Dublin
When departing the Ring for Dublin, you will experience a lengthy drive that includes numerous roundabouts on the route to Kildare. The Irish midlands shift from cliffs and limestone mountains to peat bogs and pastures, known for their thoroughbred horses. Before you get to Dublin you might want to stop for a few days in County Kildare.
TIP! To this point the trip has been structured around fresh air experiences that require clothing that we classify as “weathered casual.” Now I’m going to, late in the trip, toss you a curveball. In County Kildare there are spectacular castle hotels and manor houses that offer you the opportunity to break bread with the upper crust. Many are situated in grand parks and provide amenities that can be found in 4–5-star resorts. Bookings are a bit pricy but in the grand scheme of things it is actually very reasonable. The question is, can you turn “weather casual” into “smart casual.”
If that is possible we would recommend 2-3 nights.
Major points of interest include:
IRISH NATIONAL STUD AND JAPANESE GARDENS County Kildare may be one reason Ireland is known as the “Emerald Isle.” Certainly, the emerald hued pasturelands with their hedge-lined roads form an image of enhanced natural beauty for those fortunate enough to experience the land of thoroughbreds. Among the numerous stud farms there is one in particular that stands out --- the National Stud established in 1902. On the property there is also the famous Japanese Gardens. (Check for opening times.)
RUSSBOROUGH One of the most magnificent houses in Ireland is the 18th century Palladian styled Russborough nestled in its equally magnificent parklands of walled formal gardens, rolling meadows and woodlands.
Architecturally Russborough was designed to reflect the symmetry and classic lined architecture of ancient Greece.
The rooms of Russborough are designed to compare with the finest in the country.
A stop at Russborough for a few hours is highly recommended.
Also of interest in County Kildare:
Grand canal walks
St. Patrick’s College
Maynooth castle
Kildare Town (10,500)
Clonfert farm
Castletown House
Curragh Racecourse
Now to Dublin
It is advisable to plan your departure from County Kildare with sufficient time to travel to the Dublin Airport car rental return center. You will not need or want a car in Dublin. A car in Dublin is only a bother --- and an expensive bother.
When we arrive at the airport I soon win the affection of the car rental agent by a gift of 2-fold-up chairs, gobs of plastic sheeting, and a fairly well-equipped picnic hamper. You might want to try the same strategy. I have found that a few dings and dents are quickly forgiven.
So you are at the airport and car free --- great. Let’s get into Dublin.
As you know by now I’m frugal although Deed rather sees me as penny-pinching -cheap, but let’s not quibble over words. The task at hand is to get you from the airport to your lodging with as little inconvenience to your body and your pocketbook.
There are a number of suggestions offered on the internet but somehow I feel they were all posted by teenagers. For example, you can take a bus (coach) directly from the airport, or a free shuttle to center city, or even go by bike (45 minutes) --- or walk in about 3 hours. The above suggestions are all cost effective and might make sense to anyone young, healthy, and stupid. I, on the other hand, calculate cost effectiveness in terms of oxygen tanks and ambulances. So how am I going to get Deed, our luggage, and our purchases to our lodging? With 45+ Euros and either a taxi, Uber, or Lyft. Door to door. I’m frugal --- not stupid.
Warning! Dublin is a big city. You recently left Dingle with a population of less than 2,000 and it was the largest town on the peninsula. Dublin is a big city. The population of Ireland is about 5.3 million and the population of Dublin is about 1.5 million and about 40% of the people in Ireland live in Greater Dublin. Dublin is a big city. Yet as you walk this remarkably walkable city it seems both friendly and intimate but moving at a quicker pace than you have previously experienced in Ireland. Public transportation is readily available and inexpensive yet on our trips to Dublin we seldom used it.
Earlier we asked you to describe who you are, and in particular, who you are as a traveler. We have no doubt that many travelers when they returned to the airport immediately headed for home. That’s OK, this is your trip.
If, on the other hand, you are off to Dublin we have a few more suggestions for you.
First, it has been our experience that you will only need 3-4 nights in Dublin and in Dublin we prefer the convenience of hotels or B&Bs to apartments. Second, we recommend that you book near the O’Connell Street area, or near Merrion and Fitzwilliam Square section if you are travelling during the off-season. Finding quality accommodations off-season will present little difficulty and rates will make you smile.
Now what to do in Dublin. Always first things first. Box up all your purchases and anything that you can do without and ship the box home. Your hotel will likely help you with this or at least point you to the post office (An Post). The General Post Office (GPO) in Dublin is an iconic building that in itself is worth a visit because of its role in shaping Irish history. With the shipping out of the way and your suitcase close to empty it’s time to shop and go see Dublin.
Because we are only a few days away from our flight home and that stupid mall that depresses our hometown Deed will take shopping in Dublin as a personal challenge. With her suitcase almost empty her eyes have turned from museums and the Kilmainham Gaol to fine shopping along Graften and Henry Streets and Cows Lane. My shopping was completed in Cashel and Kenmare when we were in need of heavy-weather clothing so while Deed shopped I walked and took tea and a sweet roll in the park.
Major points of interest include:
TRINITY COLLEGE Located physically and intellectually in the heart of the city it is impossible to experience Dublin without experiencing its great university. Trinity, the oldest university is said to be Ireland’s “Harvard,” but I suspect that the students at Trinity might see that as a put-down.
I don’t often recommend tours but a tour of Trinty that includes the famous Long Room, the Red Pavillion (Book of Kells and exhibits), and the architecturally world-famous building is a must.
ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL Ireland’s largest cathedral, dating to the 13th century, has often suffered disrepair and neglect throughout its history. Since the late 19th century it has been lovingly restored to its Gothic spiritual grandeur and today takes its place as one of the wonders of Western Civilization.
Also of interest in Dublin:
Hike Howth’s coastal cliffs
St. Stephen’s Green
Kilmainham Gaol
Dublin Castle
Sailing tours on Dublin Bay
Guiness Storehouse
Christ Church Cathedral
Temple Bar District
Chester Beatty Library/Museum
A Final Reminder:
Ireland deserves your time and attention, but to fully benefit from your Irish experiences remember to pace yourself. Slow down. Can you add a few more days to your trip?
Time to head to the airport. Go by taxi and arrive early. As an ol’ poop I now request assistance as soon as we get to the airport. It is wonderful!
Review our “We’re Glad You’re Here” entry, as well as Deed’s Guidepost and Essentials for detailed guidance on:
Counting Days and Budget
Packing
The Aging Process
Perspective and Pacing
Stress and Endurance
Car Rental in helping you prepare for your trip
Plan well, travel well, and savor the experience.