Off to the Highlands: Scotland, 21-28+ days
Off to the Highlands, 21-28+ days
This trip is designed to explore the Scottish Highlands and the surrounding islands. Your port of entry will likely be the friendly confines of Edinburgh International Airport or perhaps the equally friendly airport at Glasgow. Before we get started, be sure to consult Deed’s Guidepost and Essentials for packing tips, thoughts on aging, pacing and general travel guidance!
If your flight is to Edinburgh then we suggest that you plan an extended stay in this unique city. More on Edinburgh later.
TIP! From the airport take the train to Edinburgh (40+ minutes) or a Taxi $$$. It depends on how tired you are.
But first we bring you the weather report:
The Scots have a well-deserved reputation for being tight with a penny, and for that I offer a rousing three cheers, however, I was caught off guard to find the Scots were loose with the language. In particular those whose job it is to broadcast weather reports. But I’m finally on to them. When they say, for example, “Tomorrow will be sunny.” They mean sunny somewhere but not necessarily in Scotland. And when they unflinchingly announce that, “Today, it looks to be partially cloudy.” They mean that it has rained for the last two hours all over Scotland and will begin to rain again in ten minutes.
And then there’s the one about wind. It took me a few days to catch on to what the forecaster, reporting from Inverness, really meant when he said to expect, “Light to moderate wind tomorrow morning.” “Light to moderate wind” in Scotland translates to, “Hug a tree because your ass is going to be blown off the mountain.”
TIP! Remember what Deed said, “There’s no bad weather, just bad clothing.” That applies doubly to Scotland.
Observation. Our last trip to Scotland was in late July and two of the inns had electric blankets on the beds.
The dry season in Scotland is on or near August 10th.
Going to Scotland
I have been accused, by someone who will remain nameless, of being fickle or even capricious because my favorite country is always the one I’m in at the moment. And I must admit there is some small kernel of truth to that accusation.
But, Scotland is hard to beat. Just be serious about what you wear in Scotland. No pastels. No short skirts up to your navel. No “muscle” shirts. One of the more fashionable lighter hues in Scotland is black.
When I go to Scotland I am flanneled from head to foot and covered with the best raingear that money can buy. Remember, Deed said, “There is no bad weather, just bad clothing.” Think Scotland.
This should guarantee that you have warm, clear, sunny days for your trip.
A Traveler’s Scotland
We were expecting Scotland to “feel” small, but after a few days of driving a driver’s paradise Scotland seemed larger than the Maine-like size it is. We had misjudged it. We naively thought we could “do” Scotland in the two weeks we allotted and then head south. We now have completed 4 extended trips to Scotland and realize that Scotland demands both time and attention.
Scotland is Scotland and cannot reasonably be compared to another place --- certainly not to Nova Scotia.
So, take your time, enjoy Scotland --- and its weather.
A Nation
Scotland, like Wales, is an integral part of the United Kingdom and Scotland, again like Wales, has all the essential characteristics of a nation.
In our travels across Europe, we have witnessed an ever-growing anti-nationalistic mood. Among the young in particular when speaking of the nation there is a sense of tiredness and an apologetic attitude toward the meaning of “nation”.
We did not feel that way during our travels across Scotland. The pulse of Scotland is definitely Scottish not withstanding that the young post-modernists have reached out to Europe.
Scottish nationalism is still vibrantly celebrated in their legends and history (defeats), in their poetry and music, and in their festivals and games.
The Pride of Scotland
This is neither the time nor the place for even a partial list of the heroes of Scotland, but I must mention at least a few that will help you understand the essence of the Scottish character. It is pure hutzpah for an old man --- an American, no less --- who has spent only a few weeks in Scotland to speak to the character of the Scottish people. But I’m going to do just that.
I attended high school in Canada and my literature teacher was Scottish and he was in love with Robert (Bobbie) Burns and Sir Walter Scot and through the strange process of osmoses I seem to have caught a severe case of Scottishness.
Bobbie Burns is Scotland.
Sir Walter Scott is Scotland.
This is a travel blog so I must pull back but please read one of the finest poems in all of literature and one of the most quoted: To A Mouse by the 18th century poet Bobbie Burns. Then there is the poem we all know and love: Auld Lang Syne. And the one we should know and love which is still recited at every Bobbie Burns Night: Address to a Haggis.
Also, identified with Burns is the Selkirk Grace:
Some hae meat and canneeat,
And some wad eat that want it;
But we hae meat, and we can eat
Sae let the Lord be thankit.
Sir Walter Scott, born in 18th century Edinburgh, is the creator of the historical novel. The Waverley Novels and Ivanhoe still offer the modern reader adventurous tales of the Scottish borders. My favorite is Rob Roy.
Other famous Scotts include:
- Adam Smith
- David Hume
- Andrew Carnegie
- James Barrie
- Alexander Graham Bell
- John Muir
- William Wallace
- Robert the Bruce
- Mary Queen of the Scots
An up-and-coming whippersnapper is today’s prolific Scottish writer Alexander McCall Smith. It would be fun to add a couple of his books to your device to read while in Scotland.
Edinburgh
Though far from the Highlands in distance and culture Edinburgh is the logical place to begin any trip to Scotland. Edinburgh is the historical and cultural center of Scotland and the seat of the Northern Renaissance. Edinburgh is a walkable city with narrow lanes, a mountain top castle, a palace, and small intimate quarters (Stockbridge, Leaf, Morningside, Brunfield) frequented by the locals.
Special Interests and things to do in Edinburgh:
Royal Mile
Calton Hill
Dean Village
National Museum
Edinburgh Castle
Holyroodhouse
Victoria Street
Princess Street
Greyfriars Kirk
U. of Edinburgh
Hiking Arthur’s Seat
Royal Botanical Gardens
Local markets
And the cherry on the Sundae is the Royal Military Tattoo held in August!
TIP! You will not need a car in Edinburgh so schedule your car pick-up for your last night in Edinburgh for an early departure.
Driving Distances
Edinburgh to Inverness 156 miles, 3 ½ hours
Edinburgh to Fort Augustus 159 miles, 4 hours
Edinburgh to Portree 240 miles, 5 ½ hours
Edinburgh to Glasgow 50 miles, 1 ½ hours
Oban to Durness 210 miles, 5 ½ hours
TIP! Most of your driving will be on quality Class A or B roads (single or double lanes) with frequent roundabouts but also expect to be on single tract roads. On single tract roads you will need to give way to oncoming traffic at the nearest layby.
Major points of interest in Scotland include:
Borrowing from my leader I must remind you to see well what you see and don’t try to do too much. Slow down and pace your activities and plan to come back for more of Scotland.
INVERNESS is a pleasant town with much to do and only a short drive away from Loch Ness where you can begin your search for Nessy. But if you have been long in Edinburgh I would skip Inverness. Sorry.
PORTREE, on the Isle of Skye, is a charming market town that can be a launchpad for exploring all of Skye. The harbor of Portree also provides opportunities to experience the Scottish coast and nearby islands of Lewis and Harris which form part of the Inner Hebrides.
TIP! Check out bike rentals on Skye. Boat service to the nearby islands offers superb opportunities to explore the nearby islands
STIRLING and its glorious castle with a commanding view over Old Town and beyond is worthy of a brief stay.
ULLAPOOL is a small village that opens up the untamed Highlands to all who brave the adventure.
ST. ANDREWS and its legendary bunkered golf courses is a stunning base to explore the historical town and its university and the surrounding coast. We stayed 4 nights and should have stayed longer.
TOBERMORY is a colorful fishing village on the beautiful Isle of Mull and is best approached by car ferry from Oban. There are great walking paths from Tobermory. The island has a Scottish whisky distillery, a castle, white beaches, boat trips to explore the surrounding coast, and FISHING. Extended stay recommended.
TIP! A round-trip driving tour of Mull with a possible overnight (numerous holiday rentals available) would be a fantastic driving experience.
BRAEMAR and BALLATER are quaint villages near Balmoral Castle. Balmoral, and indeed Scotland, was brought to the attention of the world by Queen Victoria. Victoria was smitten with Scotland and all things Scottish from the majestic tartans to the sounds of the pipes. Perhaps the Queen’s happiest memories were formed in the Highlands with her beloved Prince Albert as they explored the wild glens and mountains --- often with their less than enthusiastic court.
TIP! Check out the times and places for the famous Highland Gatherings and festivals.
CAIRNGORMS NATIONAL PARK must be seen to be believed. Is Cairngorm the real magic kingdom? Even after a few days in the park one questions if there really can be such a place as Cairngorms National Park. Yes, it exists, and it waits for you.
Deed always accuses me of being a gusher, and worse still, a romantic gusher. Here in Cairngorms, I plead guilty. It is the largest national park in the UK and very popular so expect some crowds --- but not big city crowds so even during the summer months you will find your space. However, book early, like at the Grand Canyon.
We always want you to search the internet to check out if a place is really what you want. I have searched through numerous videos on CNP, but they all fall short.
Seeing is believing. Someday it may be possible to mix into a video not just the sound of wind but the feel of wind; and not just the look of cold but the feel of cold. Maybe someday.
For now, you can check out accommodations in the many villages in and around the park.
This might be an extended stay.
HIGHLAND GAMES AND FESTIVALS could very well be one of your core activities. They are nationwide and held in big cities and small villages. The largest are splendid and spectacular but those held in the smaller venues are more authentic and more fun.
NARROWBOATS for hire
Along with another couple Deed and I rented a narrowboat for an experience of a lifetime that can only be described as piling fun on fun. Truly a dream trip. What are the hazards? Basically none.
You can’t get lost at sea. You can’t get hit by a storm. There are no navigational issues, and you poke along at about 4 miles an hour. And you just go straight, and you need no sailing experience.
The narrowboats are similar to a Winnebago without wheels. But much more fun. At night we stopped at small villages to explore and enjoy a pub meal.
In Scotland all locks and bridges are operated by professional canalers.
Check them out online. Also, check the Chirck Aqueduct --- it’s amazing.
If you have previously visited our Blog you might well recognize the above recommendation for canal boating. Scotland offers one of the very best opportunities to vacation by the narrowboats along the beautiful Scottish lochs and waterways such as:
Falkirk and Glasglow
Falkirk and Edinburgh
Forth canal
Clyde canal
Union canal
Monkland canal
Falkirk Wheel links Forth to Clyde
Castles Galore
So much to see; so little time. This suggestion list looks a bit silly because there are so many castles that I simply suggest that you visit the ones near you.
Glamis
Stirling
Inverness
Dunrobin
Eilean Donan
Dunnottar
Tantallon
Urquhart
Balmoral
Cawdor
Caerlaverock
More Points of Interest include:
Fort Williams
Oban
Glencoe
Fort Augustus
Plockton
Ben Nevis
Orkney Islands
Killin
Isle of Islay
Driving Routes
Scotland could be a driving vacation. The views from the roads are breathtaking and seemingly endless. We seldom recommend several one- or two-night stays back-to-back on any trip, but Scotland and its charming/excentric wild Highland accommodations are too good to be missed. I have listed a few driving routes, but any route you take that looks promising will do just as well. Get in your car and get lost for a few days. Remember, Scottish roads are narrow and then you have the weather.
North coast 500 route (difficult)
Isle of Skye
Glencoe to Loch Loman
Cairngorms
Inverness to Skye
Tyndrum to Ballachulish
Durness
TIP! The North Coast 500 route is considered by drivers to be one of the top driving experiences in Europe.
“All Aboard!”
I have heard wonderful stories of train travel in Scotland but because of time constraints, and perhaps some poor decision making, we have failed to hear the cry, “All aboard”. You might very well want to avoid our mistake.
Earlier it was suggested that you begin your tour in Edinburgh and rent a car before departing Edinburgh. It might be more fun to depart Edinburgh by train for Inverness and rent your car in Inverness to begin your journey into the Highlands. The Internet again offers numerous possibilities for train experiences.
Deed and I have been accused, and rightfully so, of being control freaks.
We have included in our travels wonderful train journeys but always come back to the car as our transportation of choice.
Still, the Royal Scotsman must be an exceptional train experience.
Apologies
When Deed and I are planning our next trip to Scotland we will lay out on a large table all our books and maps and review the richness of the internet. We make our list of possible stays and adventures and from that list we begin the slow painful process of elimination. That process, of give and take, with me doing most of the giving, takes us several months to complete. But at the end of the process, we start to see our Scottish itinerary acquire a shape.
Here is our apology. The southeastern Scottish Borders always get bumped. Without question the Border area offers the visitor much to see and do. The Borders have beautiful villages and lochs, but we invariably are off to the Highlands and have never traveled much below St. Andrews. Sorry.
A Final Reminder
Scotland deserves your time and attention, but to fully benefit from your Scottish experiences remember to pace yourself. Slow down. Can you add a few more days to your trip?
Plan well, travel well, and savor the experience.