A Tale of Two Cities: Paris and London, 21-28+ days
A Tale of Two Cities: Paris and London, 21-28+ days
Logistically this is an extremely easy trip to plan because it has so few moving parts, and yet the complications are in the details. First, let’s review Deed’s Guidepost as the best way to begin planning your trip to Paris and London.
Oops, Deed doesn’t much care for the words “brief” and “review”. I have a lecture to attend but will be right back when Dee finishes her lecture on “brief” and “review”.
I’m back. We agreed to change both words and also the tone of the sentence to, “Carefully study and learn Deed’s Guidepost for all the wisdom that they contain”. You’ll never know what it’s like. Sorry, off topic.
Deed recommends that the trip has a better “rhythm” if it starts in Paris and the more we worked on the itinerary the more I agreed. Having said that you may have good reasons to begin in London, and, anyway, Deed doesn’t have to know everything.
For centuries the two cities of Paris and London have been central to the development of modern Western Civilization. To get the most out of your travel experience it is important to understand the historical and cultural significance of each of the two cities. For much of the last 500 years Paris has been the cultural hub, and London the political and financial hub of the world only reluctantly relinquishing their positions of influence after the Great War in 1914.
In the poem, The Second Coming, William Butler Yeats spoke of “things falling apart” and a center that can no longer hold. Unfortunately, that describes today’s Paris and London.
For the citizens of the two cities, sadly, the influence of both cities is waning as are their respective nations.
But we go more to see what Paris and London were and not what they are today.
Are they worth the effort? Most definitely. They are two of the most popular tourist destinations in the world.
TIP! At some point you will need to decide on how you allocate time in your two principal cities, and for that we cannot be of much help. We can only say that there is no right or wrong answer. It is simply a matter of preference.
TIP! When is the best time to travel? Anytime. When is the absolute best time to travel. Off season! Our last trip to England began at the end of February. We had wonderful sweater weather. The crowds were gone, no lines, and super prices.
Looking into the history of Paris
There was a time when we would recommend books to read --- and we still do, but now the internet, as in all things, provides a short cut for our insights into Paris. With that in mind it is recommended that you become familiar with some Parisian milestones.
First some dates:
The cathedral of Notre Dame, a medieval marvel, was built on the Île de la Cité in the 13th century, and for 2,000 years the Île de la Cité has and continues to be the heart of Paris.
I suspect that the Île de la Cité will also prove to be the heart of Paris for you and a place from which you begin to learn about the Metro. The Metro is the Paris underground transit network which will transport you cheaply and quickly across all of Paris. We have been to Paris many times and have never used a bus, a taxi, or called Uber. [More on the metro to follow.]
Paris is intimidating. Paris is overwhelming. But if you are prepared it is one of the most beautiful and invigorating cities in the world.
So, let’s get prepared.
TIP! Please use the internet to help you prepare. Please ignore 92.34% of all the advice from some 20ish orange-haired kid who wants to tell you about the cool hot spots in Paris or about that smokin’ pub in London.
Packing for Paris (and London)
Review our section on Packing. And remember what you take you carry.
When all is said and done your accommodations, and what you pack should match your itinerary. Pack for comfort. Remember, you go to see; not to be seen.
If your interests are varied packing for Paris is a little tricky. Most days the essentials for me center around a money belt, multipocketed cargo pants, a pocketed travel vest, boots, a polo shirt and a light jacket tucked into my backpack. Sometimes, like in big cities, Deed gets a little truculent and refuses to wear her boots. So, for Paris, and London, Deed notches it up to a pair of fashionable sneakers --- but at night her feet are tired.
Before we leave Deed visits some travel clothing sites and buys two light-weight reversible travel skirts (with pockets) that will serve her well. Around the 3rd day in Paris Deed whips out her plastic and heads for some serious shopping at the famous 1895 art nouveau Galleries Lafayette in preparation for our evenings out.
News flash! Deed just informed me that the plastic is yesterday. Her smartphone is now the choix du jour.
TIP! In the big cities she always wears her money belt under her skirt. Personally I think it makes her look hippy, but I try not to mention that more than 3-4 times a day.
TIP! For our urban trips we don’t take much in the way of rain gear but in my backpack I have 2 light weight plastic ponchos. If it rains we go inside to cafes or museums --- or go shopping. I carry my backpack everywhere in Paris except when we go to the opera. In the cities Deed is never seen in Paris with her backpack.
When all is said and done what you pack is fixed by what you plan to do.
If our trip begins, like this one, in a big city like Paris to save space in the suitcase I will wear on the plane my trusty blue Blazer. The Blazer has been with me all of the 21st century and is made of lightweight steel impervious to wrinkles, dirt, stains, and fire. Plus, it has zippered pockets inside and out. In fact, last year I discovered a new pocket. Again, I digress. On the plane Deed wears a skirt, blouse, sweater, and her sneakers with her backpack --- AND NO PURSE.
TIP! Load your phone with needed apps, tickets, maps, directions, currency converter, med prescriptions, phone numbers, etc.
There are many wonderful Paris and London tour guide apps to choose from that should be downloaded on your device. These apps now replace the small pocket tour books that I once carried in my backpack.
Let us show you how to prepare for your travel plans (from an earlier blog).
YOUR TASK: This will take weeks, if not months, to complete and will require some notes. We prefer 4x6 index cards (they can easily be shuffled and rearranged) but use what works for you. Now it’s time to get personal. Do not rush this task --- it is multi-leveled. In no particular order:
Review past travel experiences. What worked? What did not work? Why?
Where do you want to go? Why? (2-8 weeks of daily discussion)
How long will you be traveling? Why?
What is your budget?
Who are you? Circle what describes you best: urban, rural, casual walker, hiker, nightlife, private, social, theatre, “fair weather”, museums, historical and cultural, sports, food, shopping, recreation, other descriptors.
Know who you are traveling with.
What is your current state of health? Energy? Stress level? Endurance?
What have you liked or disliked about your large group travel experiences?
A Plan for Paris
Deed rides again. “Know thy self.”
Paris is a vast multicultural city where a cacophony of sounds bombards your every waking moment. Paris can be both stressful and tiring for older people. I’m almost 90 and must be very careful to avoid stressful and tiring situations because they cause stress and tire me. The solution, which I don’t much care about, often seems to evolve around spending a little more money. There must be a formula for this, but I can’t seem to put it together. I think it goes something like this:
a. travel is fun
b. I’m old
c. open wallet
d. divide by 5 and add 7
e. stress and tiredness disappear
Assess where you are on the sliding scale of aging. Be honest.
TIP! Review: (insert business class link)
Begin your search for the best business class tickets months before departure to find the best price. We never pay full business class prices. Remember, the price of business class is not just the benefits you get at the airport and during the flight, but the real benefits are arriving in Paris fresh, less stressed and ready to kick ass. Bingo.
With business class you will arrive at the airport and with business-assist quickly claim your luggage, breeze through customs and be directed to the train to Paris.
Now go to your hotel/apartment.
TIP! When you make your accommodation to Paris confirm the nearest Metro stops.
TIP! At the airport Assist will direct you to REB train “B” platform for Paris. Metro stop maps are shown on platforms and inside train cars.
Get off at your exit and if needed take a taxi to your residence.
TIP! Now rest and relax. Don’t rush out to see Paris or anything creative --- and remember, if you’re not old you’re getting old. The first full day in Paris Deed keeps me tethered to a long leash. I’m not allowed on the Metro, but I’m allowed down into the Metro to look at the maps and check things out. Then we explore the neighborhood, but not too far afield but far enough to gain a “feel” for the surroundings. We then search for a café that will be “ours” for the next week or so. Then a glass of wine, an early dinner, and to bed.
Not too tired, and certainly not stressed.
TIP! There are many ways to pre-buy your metro ticket by downloading onto your phone, but I suggest you wait until you get to Paris. On the first day in Paris just buy, at the Metro station, a one-day ticket. Get the feel of the Metro, and Paris. See where your hotel is. Then decide what kind of Metro ticket will be best for you. Paris is walkable, and for us days could go by without getting on the Metro.
Books to Consider
Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast
Emile Zola, L’ Assommoir
David McCullough, The Great Journey
Jon Baxter, The Most Beautiful Walk in the World: A Pedestrian in Paris
Joan DeJean, How Paris became Paris: Invention of the Modern City
Accommodation in Paris
On our early trips to Paris we stayed in some real dog pounds. We were young and stupid (Is that redundant?) and were looking for hotels in the wrong sections of Paris. But now we know better. Which brings me to the major flaw in reincarnation for as I understand it you go through a nearly endless number of lives where in each life you begin again young and stupid. Again, I digress.
Online sites will offer you a full selection of excellent accommodations. It is our recommendation that your stay in Paris be 10-14 days, and for that reason we would stay away from hotels unless they can offer a set of rooms.
We offer a few possible districts in which you can find excellent choices.
In no particular order:
Le Marais District is a friendly 10-minute walk to Notre Dame and the Louvre. Also, it is near the Pompidou Center (closed), the Place de la Bastille. Marais, a walkable part of Paris, has fantastic bakeries, cafes, restaurants, parks, shops, museums, and boutique hotels, and apartments. Le Marais also offers easy access to the Metro and bus stops. Plus, it can be slow paced and relaxing with a neighborhood feel.
Saint-Germain-des-Pres is centrally located and a very upscale district. Saint- Germain is a fashionable district near Luxembourg Gardens, the Orangerie, Pantheon, Sorbonne, and much more.
Montmartre is a major tourist area and home to budding artists and at night a bit on the noisy side. Young people certainly would object to my labeling the area noisy and might suggest that the evenings at Montmartre, and its famous Sacre Coeur, are simply energized and alive. Montmartre with some of the best views of Paris offers a full range of accommodations for the tourist.
TIP! Deed just reminded me there are two sides to every coin. (Is she brilliant or what?) Earlier, I suggested that for an extended stay in Paris apartments are more suitable than hotels. So, I flipped the coin over and took another look. I like to have breakfast in an apartment. Just some cereal, toast, cheese, a slice of ham, and iced tea.
Damn, Deed’s right! What was I thinking?
This is Paris. By French law --- and a wise law it is --- no hotel may be more than 20 feet from a bakery. A real honest to goodness French bakery. Don’t rush over that last sentence.
When you are building your French vocabulary the first word, even more than “oui,” and “merci” is “boulangerie”. A boulangerie is a bakery, but like none that you have ever experienced and a boulangerie must not to be confused with that doughy stuff in your local grocery store. For me, if I had to make a choice between going to the Louvre or a boulangerie, any boulangerie --- need I say more.
Excuse me I’ll be right back.
Deed was pounding me on the head to get back to hotels and apartments and the other side of the coin. But the boulangerie is the reason you might just want to stay in a hotel. The boulangerie is the other side of the coin. If you are a group of four apartments likely will be less expensive. Also put this in the mix. In Paris our experience is that we spend very little time in our rooms. In Paris we are out early and home late (10:30ish).
Things to do in Paris --- probably the dumbest sentence I have ever written:
Anyway, here goes a brief list:
WALK AND SIT IN PARIS: Before you leave home divide your map of Paris into walkable areas to avoid running like a frightened rabbit all over the city. For example, the Cluny, Sorbonne and the Luxembourg Gardens would certainly be a full day or two --- with some cafes and a boulangerie or two tossed into the mix. Montmartre would be another full day. But that sounds like a tourist writing about spending a full day in Paris. People, and very sensible people, spend years in Montmartre.
Remember, Paris is to be nibbled and not consumed, so slow down and spend the day in just one district.
SAINT-CHAPPELLE: In our opinion the most spectacular building in Paris and the best place to hear an evening concert. Number I on our list.
TIP! On your device’s note page make part of your pre-travel planning a fact page for all the things that you plan to see. For example. What is Saint Chappelle? When and why was it built? What makes it so unique? Etc. Do this for the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Cluny, et al.
NOTRE DAME: We have always experienced a Notre Dame layered in centuries of soot and grime; you on the other hand are about to experience a sparkling Notre Dame that has been restored to a look that has not been seen for centuries.
You are in for a treat.
All road distances in France are measured from Notre Dame, and you likely will find that all your travels in Paris will also radiate out from Notre Dame. The hub of the Metro system is the area near and around Notre Dame including 3 of the busiest stops.
RODIN MUSEUM: A small and intimate museum of the works of the 19th century sculptor Auguste Rodin.
This museum and the Cluny are the two that we return to time and again. Rodin’s Burghers of Calais is worth the trip to Paris. Also by Rodin: Balzac, The Thinker, The Kiss, and The Gates of Hell.
CLUNY MUSEUM: This is where you will find the angelic Unicorn Tapestries. Take your time.
TIP! Deed suggests that around the 3rd day in Paris you check out the Gare du Nord train station in preparation for when you are scheduled to take the train to London. Likely you purchased your tickets before leaving home, if not it’s time to do so while checking out Gare Du Nord.
From Paris to London (St. Pancras Station) is less than 3 hours but more expensive than flying. While the plane to London is cheaper it is a longer day, more tiring and much more stressful. The train is a better experience.
LOUVRE MUSEUM: This is going to be tricky. It’s enormous, it’s crowded, and you will feel rushed --- even herded. So, you really must be prepared to know what you’re looking for and enjoy the spectacular rooms. A beautiful building. In my list of favorites, the Mona Lisa came in as # 4,329.
THE ORANGERIE: The Impressionist and Post-Impressionist housed in the Orangerie offers the best opportunity to view in one place the great works of this creative era in the history of art. Plus, the museum is located in a beautiful garden. Perhaps a full day’s activity.
MUSEE D’ORSAY: Excellent collection of the works of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artists.
BOIS DE BOULOGNE: A large urban park set aside by Napoleon III with lakes, ponds, waterfalls, beautiful gardens, and fine restaurants.
PASSY: An elegant district for shopping, gardens, restaurants, and museums.
More things to do in Paris:
Book stalls along the Seine
Eiffel Tower
Latin Quarters
Arc de Triomphe
Montmartre
Petit Palais
Dinner cruise on the Seine
Rue Cler
Rue Montorgueil
TIP! Dinner cruises on the Seine are fun, but we prefer dining at a Parisian restaurant with a view overlooking the city. Try Montparnasse Tower Restaurant, or Madame Brasserie’s high up in the Eiffel Tower. Also, after dinner in Montmartre for a wonderful nighttime view of the city have a walkaway dessert on the steps of Sacre Coeur.
The Metro
While you are snug at home download and print a colored map of the Paris Metro. Actually, print off a number of copies. Also copy a number of tourist maps of Paris. Placing them side by side divide Paris into a series of areas according to your interests.
When we were in our “stupid phase” we used the Metro 6-7 times a day going from one end of Paris to another. Then one afternoon Deed had an epiphany. She sat me down in a charming little boulangerie that offered tea and a small plate of sweets. I’m partial to tea and sweets and when I was finished Deed leaned back in the chair and said, “Divide and conquer”. Well, that’s exactly what I thought I had done with my plate of sweets and quickly complimented her on her astute observation.
Deed has a way of frowning that lets me know immediately that I had failed to grasp the point. With the promise of another plate of sweets I focused.
Brillant. We went back to the hotel and with the map of Paris before us we divided the city into small areas of interest.
TIP! Deed tells me a dozen times a day, if I’m having a good day, that no one any longer carries a map of Paris, or a map of the Metro but paper maps are still my comfort level. You, Dee informs me, will whip out your device and open apps of Paris and the Metro, make your dinner reservations online, buy your tickets online all the while having a wonderful time online. My reply is that if everyone in tech world is so damn smart how come the best name they can come up with for this marvel of technology is “a device”. “A device” is such a lame name --- they should be embarrassed to utter it aloud. I like my paper maps.
The next morning we began to conquer Paris one area at a time. Now we seldom ride the Metro more than twice a day, and some days not at all.
The Metro is the most efficient and least expensive way to travel about Paris and likely will be your only use of public transportation. Tickets can be purchased at the station window, in packs of 10 (carnets), digital tickets on your phone, and Navigo Easy cards at the station window, at tobacco shops and newsstands. There are many combinations of tickets to choose from depending on your length of stay.
TIP! Here are several areas of Paris that we used from our apartment in the Marais area:
Area 1, Metro to Notre Dame, the Cluny, Sorbonne, Latin Quarter, Luxembourg Gardens.
Area 2, Metro to Montmartre, Sacre Coeur.
Area 3, Metro to Louvre, Seine River Walk, Tuileries
Area 4, Metro to Tuileries, Orangerie, Place de la Concorde, Champs-Elysee, Arc de Triomphe.
For us each area was a full day and maybe a bit much. We suggest when you set your days’ activities try not to overreach.
Dining in Paris
I’m afraid that you and I will go our separate ways on the “dining issue”. Paris has endless numbers of wonderful restaurants that tourists seldom discover because tourists tend to dine in the tourist area at tourist restaurants. Sadly, we also seldom dine in those wonderful restaurants. The Parisian dining rooms are enchanting, the service is superb, the menus are sinful, the wine list is imaginative, and the plated presentations are visually artistic. And then the French do dessert.
So here is the problem. I have no will power. As in zero. That’s the problem.
My defense is that I’m not to blame. I know there is an inherent weakness in that defense but hear me out and you may yet understand the problem I have with dining at night in some delightful little Parisian restaurant.
As you may recall, Deed’s mantra is that “First we feed our souls and then feed our bodies.” I’m in on that. So early each morning we are out exploring Paris, but then at about 9:30 -10 it’s time to go face down in the feed bag. So, we stop at one of our top 10 bakeries for tea and pastries.
My problem is not just the wonderful boulangerie shops, but the bistros, cafes, brasseries, patisseries, crêperies, and food markets that dot the Parisian landscape and ceaselessly call out my name.
Wait, I’m not finished! I simply call them walk-aways, but officially they are La Baguette served with sliced beef, secret sauces, and added options of green peppers, onions with pomme frites all in this mouthwatering bread. My favorite walk-aways are found on the Left Bank in the Latin Quarters, but really they’re everywhere. They usually weigh less than 5 pounds unless you get la grand Baguette.
But wait here is the clincher.
I’m going to drop a French word on you but see if you can figure it out and where I’m going. Ready. All over Paris there are these small but incredible shops called: CHOCOLATERIES. It is safe to say that if you have never been in one to taste their creations then you have never had chocolate. French chocolate is why angels sing.
So, I leave it to you. How can I be expected to “fine dine” the night away after a day like that?
Because of my lack of willpower we seldom dine out at night. So, at night, I face the wrath of Deed.
Side Trips from Paris
If you have been to Paris before it may be time to expand your horizons and consider adding some day trips into the country. Here are a few options:
Loire Valley
Mont Saint Michel
Versailles
Chartres
Normandy
Reims
Fontainebleau
Monet’s House at Giverny
But --- and this is big --- if you are still discovering Paris why leave. Save the side trips for another time. Remember what Deed said, “Do well what you do and try not to do too much.” Or something like that.
TIP! All tourist sites are crowded because they are “tourist sites”. I get it. But Monet’s house, garden, and museum in the small village Giverny was one of the most frustrating days we have ever spent in Europe. We expected to be surrounded by the beauty of Monet’s world of color, and to sense his “impressions”. Instead, we were pushed, shoved and pulled at warp speed until we found ourselves on the outside looking in. There was no time for reflection and no time to stop on the bridge over the lily pond. Simply no time at all. We got back on the bus and went for lunch.
Speaking of side trips from Paris I return to that coin with two sides. It is likely that you will not go wandering off on any side trips from Paris. All of the trips I listed can be done in one day but really require 2-3 days to get the benefit of how spectacular and historically important they are.
Remember, you are in Paris. Why spend a day rushing to only get a peek at Versailles?
Pickpockets
During the day in Paris, I carry a backpack --- Deed does not --- she has too much pride. Nor does she carry a purse. Every day I wear a vest with lots of secret pockets to protect what is not in the money belt. Do we feel secure? Just short of having a tank.
Earlier in the Blog I mentioned the pickpockets in Rome. In Paris they are a little more aggressive, and a little more professional but not really dangerous.
How should you deal with pickpockets? I suggest with a sense of amusement because they will not “get you”, and that will frustrate them. Actually, it’s a fun activity. Deed disagrees.
TIP! To annoy pickpockets, I always carry a wad of toilet paper in my unbuttoned back pocket. I count that as one of my major personality flaws, but it has given rise to several interesting pickpocket experiences.
Therefore, to be free of worry we recommend no wallets or purses. Everything of value should be secured in a money belt except daily “pocket money”.
Pickpocket alert! You will find them at train stations, Metro stops, major tourist attractions --- just be sure you do not tempt them. They drool at the sight of a purse.
Departing Paris for London
It is recommended that you leave as early as convenient by taxi for the train from Gare du Nord. Please make certain that your seat has been prebooked and as always you should be wearing your money belt.
Be alert in the station and protective of your possessions.
See you in London!
London
St. Pancras Station
Your arrival aboard the 21st century highspeed Eurostar from Paris brings you into the marvelously restored 19th century St Pancras Station. The station dressed in hues of red brick with spires and arched windows drips the grandeur of the Victorian Era but stands sadly in a city that is less and less grand. Rather than grand --- flashy might be a better word to describe London.
Looking into the history of London:
Greenwich is a borough of London, and a very important borough because it is home to the British Royal Observatory. In the courtyard of the Observatory there is a line marking the place from where 0° longitude is measured. That line is the Prime Meridian. In the courtyard the line is short, but it represents an imaginary line that runs from the North Pole to the South Pole to divide East from West. Straddle the line and you have one foot in the western hemisphere and the other in the eastern hemisphere. The line tells the world that London is the beginning and the end.
For centuries the time zones of the world have been set at Greenwich --- Greenwich Mean Time. Time is also measured from London.
A short walk from Greenwich is the financial district, which for centuries set global currency values against the British pound. The value of the world’s currencies was also set in London.
From the financial district it is a short walk to the Palace of Westminster and the houses of Parliament and within the walls of Parliament the British Empire controlled 25% of the earth and nearly 25% of the world’s population. And it was from that realization that the Brit’s could toss out to the world, with more than a little arrogance, the old cliché, “The sun never sets on the British Empire.”
Today the empire is gone and Parliament speaks for less than 1% of the world’s population --- the sun has now set.
Today’s London has seen better days.
London first appeared as a Roman camp nearly 2,000 years ago, but the area, thousands of years before the Romans, was inhabited by tribes of hunters and gatherers.
Following the withdrawal of the Roman armies London and the islands were occupied by the German and Celtic tribes including the Angles, Saxon, Jutes, and later from the north the Vikings. From Angles we soon would have the word “England”.
The last conquest of England was led by William of Normandy in 1066 --- though others like Napoleon (1805) and Hitler (1940) have tried.
London today is a city of memories and in search of its future.
TIP! Now you are about to conquer London but be aware they have set a trap for you. When you leave the train station and get ready to cross the street to get the taxi --- @#&*#@*. Cars, trucks, bikes, and very big buses will come at you FROM THE WRONG DIRECTION. LOOK RIGHT.
I know you know this, but I also know because of the excitement of arriving in London, that you have forgotten this simple fact. And that is why England has not been conquered since 1066. Invaders get run down by double-decker buses.
Disclosure: Earlier in this blog we asked you to describe who you are.
Now, I must tell you who I am. As I begin to help you plan your trip to London I must say that our last two trips to London convinced me that I am too old for London. London has defeated me. The city that I loved is gone, and it has gone to the young. Good for them. London is a fantastic city, but the pace of the city is too fast and too hectic for these old bones. Deed can still handle the pace but even she is wilting under the constant barrage of visual and audio disharmony.
Don’t go to London expecting to find a staid English city of men in bowler hats and wool suits welding long black umbrellas or women going for afternoon tea. In some places that London still exists but now it’s tucked away among the Edwardian side streets both out of sight and out of mind.
Today’s London, with an air of frenzied excitement and anticipation, is all hustle and bustle that demands too much from the likes of me. I often find myself looking for a place to just sit and watch while Deed goes off on a half-hour mini adventure.
Also, I’m too frugal for London. Yes, London is expensive. In your planning for this trip you need to anticipate higher prices than in Paris.
A Plan for London
Leave St. Pancras by taxi for your hotel.
Similar to Paris, make your first day in London a day of settling into an unfamiliar environment. The names of the everyday transportation system have changed. The Paris Metro is now the London Underground (Tube) and like in Paris there are a number of ticket options available that need to be understood before you leave home. Again, as in Paris, you will still seldom need a bus or a taxi, although to hop on a double-decker and just go is great fun.
TIP! We never get on a double-decker unless we are certain the top front seats are available. Where is the double-decker with the available top front seats going? Who cares! It’s the best view of London.
The enormous difference between the Paris Metro and the London Underground is that in Paris when train doors open everyone gets in at the same time as if riding the Metro was a contact sport. In London people stand good-naturedly in queues waiting their turn. They might even be humming a little ditty. The Brits queue up for everything. But like everything even queuing up is under assault.
Study the map of the London Underground. The map is divided into zones and most of your time will be spent in Zone I, but many places will require an Underground ticket for other Zones like Hampton Court and Kew Gardens.
In the comfort of your home download an Underground map and a tourist map of London and locate the nearest Underground station to your points of interest. I’m told that you can even download the maps onto your TV, but I can’t figure that one out. What is your Underground stop for visiting the Royal Observatory? What is the station for the Tower of London? For Buckingham Palace? [My feeble attempt to amaze you with my tech smarts is to periodically tell you to “download” something. I like to say “download.” Do I impress?]
TIP! Events and points of interest in London seem to be spread over a greater distance requiring more frequent times using the Underground. Also, the subway is different from the Underground. In the UK a subway is simply a short underground passage from one street to another.
Accommodation in London
TIP! Deed informed me last night that we had better, sooner than later, put an end to this nonsense about equality. I immediately knew where the conversation was going (by the way, does the word “conversation” imply that two or more people are equally engaged in the dialogue. Oops.
Again, I digress.
Back to equality. Deed says, and I agree, that Paris and London are not equal. That does not say one is better than another, but we like Paris best. THINK BOULANGERIE!
So how long is your trip? Do you allot the same days for each city?
It is our recommendation to allocate 3-4 fewer days in London in order to allow time for a side trip from the city.
We know there is a flaw in our logic. Paris seems walkable. London is massive. Your call.
We have been very pleased with our accommodations in the Kensington area. Other areas we have enjoyed would be Chelsea and Notting Hill. I like the area around Covent Gardens and although we have spent many hours in the area we have not stayed there.
On our first trip to Europe our daily budget was $5 a day --- London’s prices have gone up.
You, however, are prepared. You have long ago identified what you want to see and where you want to stay and have paid for much of your trip so there won’t be too many shocks to the bank account.
Well done.
Things to do in London
WALK AND SIT IN LONDON: I’m not the man I used to be --- at least that’s what Deed keeps telling me. And she’s right. I need recovery time. If I had just left Paris I would need the first two days in London to recharge my batteries. In a 3–4-week trip it is essential that rest days be built into the itinerary. We go to the parks to stroll and eventually sit down in a rental deck chair to finalize our activities in London and sneak in a nap or two. The parks and gardens of London are spectacular with much to see and do but at a leisurely pace. Those two days are not wasted time or wasted money, rather they are a vital part of a health insurance policy.
BUCKINGHAM PALACE AND THE PARKS: I know you have to go to Buckingham Palace. Every tourist has to go to Buckingham. But often the gates are locked, and you can’t get in. There is a two-month window when parts of the palace will be open to the public so check your schedule. I know I’m wasting my breath to tell you going to Buckingham is a waste of your time. The King lives there and he doesn’t want you strolling by while he’s having breakfast. You will see it from a distance --- likely a far distance with thousands of other tourists taking pictures on their smart phones. If you’re lucky you may get to see the State rooms, but little else. If you want to see Buckingham Palace watch the TV series The Crown. Deed says I can be a real candle snuffer.
The parks near Buckingham like St. James, and Green Park on the other hand are a must visit. They seem to capture the true spirit of London.
THE WEST END: Plan ahead and buy your theatre tickets from any number of cheap ticket sites online. If there is something that you really want to see don’t wait for half-price tickets that likely won’t be available anyway.
Your time in the West End can include Soho, Trafalgar Square, Covent Gardens (MY Fair Lady), the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery, Regent Street, and at night the Theatre District.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND WESTMINSTER PALACE: The Abbey dates from 1245 and over the centuries with numerous alterations and redesigns stands as the perfect symbol of British history. It is where kings and queens have been crowned and where many are buried. The Abbey is also a record of British achievement and the final resting place of over 3,000 of its most renown citizens and heroes including Newton, Darwin, and the tomb of the Unknown Warrior (The Great War). Tickets are expensive as are many tourist spots in London. Westminster Palace, more commonly called the Houses of Parliament, was built over many centuries beginning in 1016. Westminster Palace dates from the early years of the Victorian Era (1837-1901). To illustrate how difficult it is to correct a misconception Big Ben is not the name of the tower looming over the Houses of Parliament. Big Ben is not even the name of the clock. Big Ben is a bell, a13 ton bell hidden in the tower out of sight but not of hearing. Access to the Houses of Parliament is through the Cromwell Green entrance --- expect a line. Tickets for Prime Minister Questions are very difficult to obtain.
BRITISH MUSEUM: The British Museum is free, but you may need to reserve a time. Like the Louvre it is overwhelming, and you should have a plan of attack of what you want to see. I recommend that you do several 1–2-hour trips, but then museums might not be your cup of tea.
TOWER OF LONDON AND ST PAUL’S CATHERDAL: This will be the last time I say this about London --- there will be crowds and often tickets have to be purchased. So just expect to queue up and tap your smart phone. In the same area are Tower Bridge and Millennium Bridge.
The Embankment: This is an extended area of London running along the Thames. (You will soon discover that the Brits have a devil of a time pronouncing “Thames.” Another small mark against the Brits is that they don’t appreciate being told of their chronic error in pronouncing what I believe to be an extremely easy word.) Back to the Embankment. Walking the Embankment is a delight and best done over several days. However, with your boots laced up, it can be done in one day --- but not by me.
TIP! Begin the Embankment adventure from your point of interest. At various times we have started at Westminster Station to the Tower of London ending at the Tower Hill Station. In between there is much to see and do
Hyde Park: The park was built for kids and old people and everyone in between. The parks are my default position while in London and for many Hyde Park is the finest British example of urban civility. In Hyde Park I am almost convinced that it just might be possible to find joy and contentment surrounded by 8,000,000+ people. In Hyde Park one can forget, for a moment, that crowded Picadilly Circus is just a few steps away.
Victoria and Albert Museum: The V&A is a special museum and if we were limited to visit only one museum in London this would be the one, with the British Museum nipping at its heels. It is an art and design museum of applied and decorative arts featuring furniture, ceramics, glass, textiles from civilizations around the world and across thousands of years. In writing that last sentence it doesn’t sound like much more than a building with a couple of tables and some dishes. But trust me on this one.
Movies about London
My Fair Lady
Oliver
Living
Young Victoria
Suffragette
Notting Hill
More to do in London
Oxford Street
Regent Street
Sky Garden
London Eye
British Library
Natural History Museum
Tate Modern--- boo hiss
Regent’s Canal Waterbus
Boat Cruise on Thames
Brick Lane
Dining in London
“Dining in London …” was one time a favorite opening line for standup comics. I can remember when a menu in an English restaurant consisted of steak and ale pie, bangers and mash, fish and chips, steak and kidney pie, shepherd’s pie, all served with a triple helping of peas --- mushy peas if you were lucky.
The day in London begins with the set English breakfast which I will not describe to you because I want it to be a surprise. I will, however, notify you that the record set by a Japanese tourist of 11 consecutive days of the famous English breakfast remains unchallenged. As for lunch, at one time it consisted of some mysterious creamy soup, a pasty (don’t ask), or a shredded cheese sandwich WITH ENGLISH MUSTARD spread lavishly across the cheese. Sorry, I don’t know how to insert lightening bolts following ENGLISH MUSTARD. A note of caution --- apply ENGLISH MUSTARD sparingly --- or not at all.
Now, throw all that stuff about “dining in London” in the trash bin. London is awash in starred restaurants featuring cuisines from around the globe.
London may well boast to be the most cosmopolitan city in the world. In that sense London is a world city more than an English city, and as you explore the city you will soon discover the sounds and whiffs of the world community.
At one time fish and chips may have been the smells wafting from the English restaurant, but those days are long gone.
Your choices for dining well in London are endless.
TIP! We are not food geeks, so we budget $40 per person for the evening meal, a pub lunch is much less, and breakfast is usually in-house. By the end of the trip we are usually (always) under budget. Those numbers will not work for you if you notch it up. Two or three stars will cost you about $400+ per meal.
Steak and ale pie sounds really good to me.
Day Plans for London
The London Underground has preempted the word “zone” therefore in London I just divided each day into a very manageable number of activities by region. Traveling from one zone to another on the Underground increases the fare. Deed and I have probably invested, over many years, about 15 or so weeks in London and not until the second or third visit did we understand how truly massive the city is--- so be prepared to use the Underground and all its zones.
To lessen the pressure try to see our regional activities as mere suggestions for what is “doable”, but not what you may want to do. And of course, don’t try to see what your friends at home want you to see.
Days 1-2: Low keyed days to rest and recover from Paris. These two days we would build around our lodging-neighborhood and try to learn the intricacies of the Underground. We would seek out a friendly park, a nice pub and a cozy restaurant. Finally we would test the Underground for an exchange stop or two to become familiar with the system.
TIP! For practice, take the Underground to Westminster then to Leister Square then back to your lodgings.
Day 3: Westminster Palace, Westminster Abbey, Victoria Tower Gardens, St. James Park, in the evening Trafalgar Square, West End theatre, or concert at St. Martin-in-the-Field.
Day 4: Try to get to the British Museum early in the day to avoid the crowds. We would enjoy a few special rooms and take a break at midday for lunch in the Russell Square area of Bloomsbury and then return to the Museum in the afternoon. This would make a lovely day with an early dinner and an evening theatre in the West End.
Day 5: Exit at the Ladbrooke Grove Station for the Portobello Road Market in the Notting Hill area of London. The market contains a little bit of everything, and you can even haggle over the price of most things especially if you are willing to pay cash. We would likely spend most of the day at the market and Notting Hill area. It’s a lovely area to explore and even to dine before going back to your lodgings. My reality, however, is that a nap before dinner is oh so nice.
Day 6: Exploring London on foot is a must and this is the day. We begin at Speakers Corner in Hyde Park and try to include the park as far as Kensington Palace and gardens
Day 7: A full day along the Embankment then back to our lodgings and dinner and a concert at Royal Albert Hall.
There is a message for you in our sample seven-day itinerary of London. Here’s a clue. There is no way to see London --- or Paris --- in seven weeks let alone seven days. Above there is a section called, “More things to do in London” --- take another look at it. After a week in London our sample itinerary has barely touched many of the major attractions of London. Note all the things that are still to do in London that should be done before you leave.
The trip was built around two incredible cities, and we suggested a length of 21-28 days and on to that we added a little “+”.
Can you now start to feel the need for those extra days?
This is your trip. And it must be done on your budget to meet your circumstances. In other centuries, for other people a “Grand Tour” might be a leisurely six months or longer across a sleepy Europe. Times change.
This is your trip. Packaged tours will have you in Paris or London for 2-5 days. That’s a phony trip. You can do much better.
We recommended that you limit your trip to Paris and avoid too many side trips (actually, no side trips), and we make the same recommendation for London on the assumption that your trip is four weeks. If you can extend your trip beyond four weeks then we encourage you to do so. Then side trips are a possibility.
Side Trips from London
The following locations are recommended for a 3 - 4-day side trip from London:
Winsor
York
Bath
Canterbury
Brighton
Oxford
Cambridge
Each of the side trip locations can be reached from the London train terminals and from there to the airport for your home bound flight.
Review our “We’re Glad You’re Here” entry, as well as Deed’s Guidepost and Essentials for detailed guidance on:
Counting Days and Budget
Packing
The Aging Process
Perspective and Pacing
Stress and Endurance
Car Rental in helping you prepare for your trip
Plan well, travel well, and savor the experience.